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Dirge, The 
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The Dirge 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,336
Submitted By: KCP on Aug 8, 2005
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Not the best butt shot butt you get the jist...


This route shares the same start as Invocation and Final Prayer Variation, then follows a straight path up the gently overhanging wall. The line is short and continuous, with a strenuous clip at the third bolt. Be careful if you fall at the crux, because there is a dead tree leaning almost directly into the flight path.


Three bolts and anchors

Photos of The Dirge Slideshow Add Photo
1) Final Prayer Variation <br />2) The Dirge
BETA PHOTO: 1) Final Prayer Variation
2) The Dirge
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By Nathan Fisher
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

4 bolts on this line and a very painful pocket greets you as you near the top.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

3 bolts. Didn't see any stud or hole, I wonder where the 4th one was... I took the ride from the very top, flailing within reach of the anchor, and ended up around the first bolt. Felt quite weird to come down about 2/3 of the rout but the fall is clean and I got a plush catch.

The climbing is pumpy with long reaches and gnarly feet but a lot easier than it looks at first (good crimps are lurking).
The section above the last bolt is weird, barn-door moves with slick feet and strange crystal pulling where every hold faces the wrong way. One of these lines where you might peel off even after you've hung draws on the anchor!

By Ben Folsom
Jun 25, 2009

There never were four bolts, just three.

The tree in the route description has been gone for a while. The route is good and safe now.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Sep 2, 2013

Crux for me was near the top. Really fun climb with some awkward holds and definitely crystal pulling as you reach the anchors. I liked this one alot.