Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Main Area
Select Route:
300 S 
Direct Route, The T 
Gutterball T,S,TR 
Intro Slab S 
Kingpin S,TR 
Never Again T 
Velvet Jones T 

The Direct Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Jared R on Sep 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Direct route after the first placement.


(P1)The dihedral just to the right of King Pin. Climb unprotected (5.3) for 35' until you reach the dihedral. Follow dihedral for 50-60 feet to a bomber 3 bolt and chain anchor.(60 meter rope required, 70 meter would be better) This pitch is 5.8.

(P2) Traverse right up steeper rock with the crux near the top of the route. Anchors for second pitch are far left. They are the same anchors as the 2nd pitch of King Pin and need to be replaced.(60m rope required)
Descend via 2 single rope (60M) rappels down King Pin.


10' right of King Pin.
Climb up to small ledge and then start up the gully until you reach the dihedral and can place the first piece.


Nuts to #3 Camalot. Hexes are useful on this route too.

Comments on The Direct Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By travis timm
From: Tropic, Utah
Aug 5, 2013

the second half of the first pitch is decent, but if you plan on leading the second pitch, don't fall. Easy rout, but the rock quality is crap, and the cracks are super sandy.

By James Wieman
From: Southern Utah
Nov 10, 2013

WARNING. Bad anchors on top of the second pitch. I pulled out one of the older ones with little more than a tug yesterday. Two bolts remain at the top. But only one looks solid, with the other looking pretty sketchy.

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 10, 2013

Its the bowling alley, don't pull out on any anchor. At this crag, clip the fixed piece and hope for the best. Rap smooth and steady. Most importantly, do not fall.

viva the bowling alley