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The Direct Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: Jared R on Sep 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The Direct route after the first placement.

Description 

(P1)The dihedral just to the right of King Pin. Climb unprotected (5.3) for 35' until you reach the dihedral. Follow dihedral for 50-60 feet to a bomber 3 bolt and chain anchor.(60 meter rope required, 70 meter would be better) This pitch is 5.8.

(P2) Traverse right up steeper rock with the crux near the top of the route. Anchors for second pitch are far left. They are the same anchors as the 2nd pitch of King Pin and need to be replaced.(60m rope required)
Descend via 2 single rope (60M) rappels down King Pin.

Location 

10' right of King Pin.
Climb up to small ledge and then start up the gully until you reach the dihedral and can place the first piece.

Protection 

Nuts to #3 Camalot. Hexes are useful on this route too.


Comments on The Direct Route Add Comment
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By travis timm
From: Tropic, Utah
Aug 5, 2013

the second half of the first pitch is decent, but if you plan on leading the second pitch, don't fall. Easy rout, but the rock quality is crap, and the cracks are super sandy.
By James Wieman
From: Southern Utah
Nov 10, 2013

WARNING. Bad anchors on top of the second pitch. I pulled out one of the older ones with little more than a tug yesterday. Two bolts remain at the top. But only one looks solid, with the other looking pretty sketchy.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 10, 2013

Its the bowling alley, don't pull out on any anchor. At this crag, clip the fixed piece and hope for the best. Rap smooth and steady. Most importantly, do not fall.

viva the bowling alley
By BSU_Zac
From: Cedar City, UT
Aug 17, 2014

Why would you pull a bolt if you don't plan on replacing it? That just means the next guy get's to an anchor he assumes is safe just to find holes in the rock. In less than vertical rock (like the bowling alley), the pull-out strength of the bolt matters little to none. Its the sheer strength and unless the bolt is a rusty old star drive, I bet it still would have held.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Aug 17, 2014

I think you misunderstood. I meant don't pull outward. For example, some people belay and hang outward on a daisy chain while belaying the leader. I didn't mean pull (remove) the bolt. I know about the sheer strength and that its the most important part of the strength. That is why I put all those bolts in at the angle they are.

Cheers,

TDA