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Routes in Chimacum Rock
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B.I.D.A.W.A. S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dinner Plate, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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El Nino La Nina S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rock Dancer Traverse V2- 5+ |
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| Type: | Sport, 190 ft (58 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,919 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Dreher on Sep 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Closed
Details
Chimacum Rock is under new ownership by the Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe. The Tribe has closed it to climbing as a sacred site. A new management plan is being developed to allow limited public access in the future.
Description
The first route on the left when one approaches the wall (starts directly in front of the tree stump). This route is usually done in two pitches but can be done in one with a 60 meter rope (without lowering of course).
Pitch 1: 5.7-
The first pitch climbs to the obvious anchor to the right of the start. It has good rock and big holds.
Pitch 2: 5.10A
The second pitch climbs straight up the headwall and has good nobs, edges and an obvious pocket. The crux comes at the pocket on the steepest portion of the wall and is a bit above the bolt so be prepared. Once through the crux 5.8 awaits to the top where a solid Madrone tree assists as a belay anchor.
Descend using the cable.
The name is something we came up with because of a large dinner plate sized hold that came off of the climb a while back.
Pitch 1: 5.7-
The first pitch climbs to the obvious anchor to the right of the start. It has good rock and big holds.
Pitch 2: 5.10A
The second pitch climbs straight up the headwall and has good nobs, edges and an obvious pocket. The crux comes at the pocket on the steepest portion of the wall and is a bit above the bolt so be prepared. Once through the crux 5.8 awaits to the top where a solid Madrone tree assists as a belay anchor.
Descend using the cable.
The name is something we came up with because of a large dinner plate sized hold that came off of the climb a while back.
Location
First route on the first wall you come to. Huge, obvious protruding blocks are the start holds. The first pitch can also be done via the route to the right of the 5.7. It goes at 5.9 on mossy rock (less fun).
Protection
Draws. The first pitch requires around 7 or 8. The second I believe takes between 5-7 so bring 7. Slings for the tree belay.
Another route that can be done as a single pitch with a 60 meter rope. Bring a lot of long draws to reduce drag and have your belayer tie in before you take off on the climb.
Another route that can be done as a single pitch with a 60 meter rope. Bring a lot of long draws to reduce drag and have your belayer tie in before you take off on the climb.
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