Type: Trad, 1150 ft (348 m), 10 pitches
FA: Fritz Weissner, Robert Underhill, summer 1933
Page Views: 2,477 total · 24/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Sep 13, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

An historic but not well traveled route which has some cool parts but is no classic by any means. This is a long moderate line up through the left side of the slab traversing around the headwall to the right and up to the summit.

Not a favorite due to it being a bit dirty and loose in parts but it holds some cool, interesting moves in places.

Pitch 1: 100ft easy 5th class. Scramble up the dike/pockets from the ground on the left side of the slabs to an anchor on the right.  [Note- I’m not sure the “ anchor” is still there. At best it was once only a lonely piton. I looked for it today ( 10/1/21) and didn’t see it from 15-20 ft away on rappel. R Hall 10/1/21. ]

Pitch 2: 130ft 5.2. Follow the dike to a 2 bolt anchor in a toilet bowl pocket.

Pitch 3: 150ft 5.2. climb the dike all the way to a big tree with slings on it.

Pitch 4: 100ft 5.3. Scramble up from the trees toward a right leaning arch. Belay at some trees at the base of the arch. (This is roughly what the book says. I couldn't find a way to get to the arch without climbing 5.6 but I did see an anchor on a cluster of trees that matches this description.

Pitch 5: 130ft 5.6. Follow the arch on nice but sometimes dirty rock until you can pull over the arch and up the slab to a 2 bolt anchor below the steep bolted route "The White Zone".

Pitch 6: 90ft 5.5. A long traverse right leads to an anchor which you can use to rappel. (four 2 rope rappels get you to the ground)

Pitch 7: 90ft 5.5. Continue traversing right until you get to a corner with a couple old pins (upper section of Wedge). Follow the corner up to some ledges.

Pitches 8-10: Adventure time. choose your own adventure through low angle rock and trees to the top.

Location Suggest change

On the left side of the slabs there are 2 dikes. This is the one on the right.

Protection Suggest change

Regular Whitehorse rack.

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