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Pywiak Dome
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The Dike Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gerughty, Evje, & Meeks - 1966
Page Views: 3,739
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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dykey

Description 

The Dike Route follows an obvious system of (generally left-leaning) dikes up the right-hand end of Pywiak Dome. It is a great climb, but not for the faint-of-heart. Be very confident running it out on slabs -- the crux fourth pitch has the potential for 60-80' falls on 5.8 terrain in two different places, and a 30' fall on 5.9 ground. The other pitches are easier, but still very sparsely protected.

P1: Climb a long gradually steepening slab to a bolted anchor at a stance on the dike. This stance is roughly where two dikes intersect to form a cross. 5.4.

P2: Continue up the dike past a bolt and step left to another dike. Follow this up to a bolted anchor on a big ledge. 5.6.

P3: Follow the dike up past three bolts to another bolted anchor. 5.7.

P4: Continue upwards past a pair of bolts (old anchor) and then run it out on 5.8 terrain up to a steep bulge. Pull this bulge on good holds and continue relatively straight up to a thank-god bolt. This bolt is hard to spot -- it's pretty much straight up, perhaps slightly to the right of the last belay, but don't stray too far in that direction. After clipping this bolt there is a stretch of 5.9 (crux) climbing through some gold polish before finally reaching a bolted anchor.

P5: An easy pitch up to a bolted belay below the final headwall. This can be breached via a wide crack, but most parties rap from here with double ropes (follow the Needle Spoon route on the descent).


Protection 

Five or six draws.



Photos of The Dike Route Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown climber free soloing the Dike Route
Unknown climber free soloing the Dike Route
A late day climber on the dike route.
A late day climber on the dike route.
Dike Route, 5.9 R
BETA PHOTO: Dike Route, 5.9 R
perfection in fall
perfection in fall
Comments on The Dike Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ol' Toby
From: WA
Sep 12, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Beautiful line. A delicate dance up beautiful granite.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Even more R when you can't clip the bolt on the very polished upper part of P4 (really difficult to see because all the crystals glint in the sun, just like bolts) and your belayer gets the rope jammed. E1 5a in UK terms.

By Eric Foltz
From: California
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Lead this a few years back. Never did see the last bolt on P4 and ended up running it out to the anchors. Still one of the best routes you'll find this close to a road.

By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Nice line, right up the obvious dike on the dome. Bolts are spaced a bit far apart on the faces. Last pitch is the best.

By the professor
Jun 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I too, never saw the mythical bolt on P4. The runout was at least 50 feet of mostly 5.9. Scary!

By Will Stat
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X

This is one of my proudest leads in Tuolumne. Pitch 4 didn't seem to have a distinct crux, it was a bunch of 8+/9 climbing on insecure slab features with huge runouts. Personally I think this route deserves an R/X rating, and P4 should be treated like an X rated climb. Sure, the rope will eventually catch the leader, but you can get really messed up in an 80'-100' slab tumble. Good luck riding that down safely, especially if you miss the second bolt. Keep cool, don't fall, and enjoy one of Tuolumne's best 5.9 slabs. What a line!

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jun 5, 2014

I did this with my brother many years ago. We were supposed to swap leads, but every time it was his turn he looked up and said "You Lead." The crux pitch had me blabbering like I was gonna die. I did make it and was pretty stoked! I remember sometime later doing some routes at the Bunny Slopes and watching a progression of 5 or 6 parties attempt this route and to the last they all bailed off before doing the crux pitch. That made me feel pretty good!!