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Castle Dome
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Castle Dome - 4th class route T 
North Face - Castle Dome T 
the Dike Route T 

the Dike Route 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Bald et al.
Page Views: 2,568
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on May 23, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: A good view of the Southeastern face of Castle Dom...

Description 

The route climbs on or near a dike for 1100 feet of well featured face climbing. Climbing is sustained continuous 5.8 with many 5.9 sections and a few short 5.10 cruxes. Expect 20 to 30 foot runouts on 5.8 ground with more protection available during the harder stretches.The route is in the sun in the morning and goes into shade in the mid afternoon. The descent does not return to the base of the route. We found the Laird Davis guidebook description and topo accurate and easy to follow.

We were amazed at the continuous quality of this route; beautiful, relentlessly fun climbing for 900+ feet. Only the last pitch eases off to a nice summit scramble. We did not see any other people all day.


Protection 

2 or 3 old bolts on most pitches. Bolted anchors on about half of the pitches. The crux bolt appears newer. Standard rack focusing on small to medium nuts and TCU's, 8-10 runners.



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By john bald
Sep 14, 2006

One of the best in the crags! Did the fa long ago.

By Matthew Geyer
Nov 29, 2007

John, I was curious if you had any more beta or pictures for the Dike Route? Is a guide book for the area that you suggest? Thanks.

By john bald
Nov 6, 2008

Rarely check this site, but ran into alpineaddict as having current info on new routes. Happy hunting...........John

By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R

Fun climb. Really long day. We originally planned to do this then climb Shasta the next day. Needless to say, Shasta got pushed back a day.

We approached by the rock creek trail. Easy hiking for like two miles, then uphill bushwacking and fourth class scrambling.

Every pitch except for maybe the fith felt run out. And the run out's are typically on small cams or nuts or old lepper hangers. Get ready for some really creative placements (I slung a few horns for sure.)

The roof at the start of the third pitch felt really insecure and harder than 10d. Don't know if something has broken or not. By comparison, the roof on the 5'th pitch felt physically way easier than the first one (felt 10d) but was mentally challenging. Just don't think about the single bolt that is protecting your fall.

Every anchor has two bolts except for the top's of pitch's 6 and 7. The topo we were using says that there are two bolts at top of the 5.9+ sixth pitch, 110' above the last anchor. We never found the bolts and set up a trad anchor. If you climb any higher than this, you will be hard press to find anywhere to set an anchor.

We decended by heading south down the dome. Some sketchy fourth class through a water trough will eventually bring you to the trail.