The Dihedral 5.6
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Looking across the main face. The most notable li...
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Description Climb ledge to ledge, great stances abound. Plenty of backstep opportunities and no hands rests/placements. This route gets greasy, so it can easily psyche you out. The crux is moving under the roof, which looks intimidating from the ground but all the positive holds are solid making this thing a blast for anyone. Only downside, is you can't get a clean fall with so many ledges.
Location The Left most route on the main wall. The obvious Dihedral
Protection Big gear down low and normal stuff up top. Use a long runner under the roof to reduce rope drag.
Another shot of The Dihedral from the Aerial Antic...
| Unknown climber on The Dihedral.
| About half way up The Dihedral.
| Chris' first lead. WMWR, Zoo Wall, The Dihedral 5...
| Chris finds a resting place on the Dihedral. Mar ...
| Mike with the big cams in tow. The Dihedral Memor...
| Climbing "The Dihedral," Wichita Wildlife Refuge
| The Dihedral on Zoo Wall.
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By Andrew Tower From: Golden, CO Jul 1, 2007 rating: 5.6
| the best? i dunno man, the whole thing is slick as snot and I don't think i'd put beginning leaders on it just because of it. |
By adampeters From: Golden, Colorado Jul 1, 2007
| Although I gave this route a 4 star rating, it is mostly for historic value. Don't be fooled into thinking that this route is the best 5.6 in Oklahoma, let alone the nation. In fact, here is a list of better 5.6's that first time leaders can be psyched on: Yee Haw; Upper Mt. Scott (3 freaking star route for sure) Side Saddle: Zoo Wall left Great Expectations; Elk Slab Large Corner Girdle; Lichen Wall Get out and do these routes before you slide off the Dihedral grease-fest! |
By furrymurry From: Boulder, CO Jul 8, 2007
| I've never heard anyone call it the best 5.6 in the state. All the same, not a terrible climb, but the rest of the climbs on that face are much better. |
By CalebSimpson Feb 4, 2008 rating: 5.7
| Grease fest? I don't recall this route being slick at all. Climbed it twice without any problems. Second time was on TR hauling up as fast as I could to photograph a climber on Crazy Alice. I have heard this is more of a "Level 2" newbie leader climb though, but mostly because of the ledge and use of runners. |
By Arnold Braker From: golden, co Mar 10, 2008
| honestly, this route blows like gums mcgee. It's slick, it's wide, and it's awkward at the bottem. Yuck. Great Expectations is a helluva lot more fun. If this is the best 5.6 in the nation, American route developers have some serious work to do. |
By CalebSimpson Dec 20, 2008 rating: 5.7
| Great classic route. Rating is more around 5.7 now because a lot of moves are polished and the move coming out of the roof is more of a 5.7 move as well. Done this as a second and on lead. Route can give new leaders a run for their money, there is potential to fall on ledges all the way up, so be careful when protecting. It doesn't hurt to have a #4 on this route either, maybe even two. I think I only placed one though. |
By Stan Jones From: Benbrook, TX Jun 1, 2010 rating: 5.7
| Felt like 5.7 to me. Similar difficulty to Yellow Corner, and harder than the other 5.6's in the Narrows due to being off-width and slick. |
By Craig Childre From: Lubbock, Texas Oct 31, 2011
| Point taken on this not being anywhere close to the best state or even area... I have no idea where I'd think I read that from? Great alternative choices for other routes. Now I must contest the assertion that it's a 5.7, because it has jugs the whole way, a no hands stance every 8-10 feet, the crux is all jugs, slick rock isn't a problem given all the back step opportunities. |
By Craig Childre From: Lubbock, Texas Oct 31, 2011
| I knew I read it somewhere.... "The Dihedral is one of the best 5.6 climb in the southern U.S." - Chuck Lohn author of "The Oklahoma Climber's Guide |
By JeffL Mar 27, 2013
| Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam |
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