Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
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Climb ledge to ledge, great stances abound. Plenty of backstep opportunities and no hands rests/placements. This route gets greasy, so it can easily psyche you out. The crux is moving under the roof, which looks intimidating from the ground but all the positive holds are solid making this thing a blast for anyone. Only downside, is you can't get a clean fall with so many ledges.
The Left most route on the main wall. The obvious Dihedral
Big gear down low and normal stuff up top. Use a long runner under the roof to reduce rope drag.
Although I gave this route a 4 star rating, it is mostly for historic value. Don't be fooled into thinking that this route is the best 5.6 in Oklahoma, let alone the nation. In fact, here is a list of better 5.6's that first time leaders can be psyched on:
Yee Haw; Upper Mt. Scott (3 freaking star route for sure) Side Saddle: Zoo Wall left Great Expectations; Elk Slab Large Corner Girdle; Lichen Wall
Get out and do these routes before you slide off the Dihedral grease-fest!
Grease fest? I don't recall this route being slick at all. Climbed it twice without any problems. Second time was on TR hauling up as fast as I could to photograph a climber on Crazy Alice. I have heard this is more of a "Level 2" newbie leader climb though, but mostly because of the ledge and use of runners.
Great classic route. Rating is more around 5.7 now because a lot of moves are polished and the move coming out of the roof is more of a 5.7 move as well. Done this as a second and on lead.
Route can give new leaders a run for their money, there is potential to fall on ledges all the way up, so be careful when protecting. It doesn't hurt to have a #4 on this route either, maybe even two. I think I only placed one though.
By Stan Jones From: Benbrook, TX Jun 1, 2010 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Felt like 5.7 to me. Similar difficulty to Yellow Corner, and harder than the other 5.6's in the Narrows due to being off-width and slick.
Point taken on this not being anywhere close to the best state or even area... I have no idea where I'd think I read that from? Great alternative choices for other routes. Now I must contest the assertion that it's a 5.7, because it has jugs the whole way, a no hands stance every 8-10 feet, the crux is all jugs, slick rock isn't a problem given all the back step opportunities.
Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam
I finally braved the crowds at zoo wall and led this thing. The "grease fest" comments on here had me a little worried! The rock on this route is certainly more slick than anything at Crab Eyes, for example, but IMO it's no where near a "grease fest." The route is fun and easy. I led Crazy Alice the same day. Dihedral is 2 grades easier in my opinion...solid 5.6. There are good stances throughout and great gear. New leaders should not be discouraged. My buddy did it yesterday as his 3rd trad lead ever.
I led this route and then climbed past the anchor to finish on The Flying Nun. That made for a great route with an exciting exit.
I don't know what people are talking about, this is a Great route! Is has aesthetic looks to it, great and easy protection! the only thing was it was a little greasy from climbing shoes and with all the ledges there was barely any room for clean falls which would make it a much more scary route if it wasn't for all the enormous hand holds and incredible no-hands-rest stances which make protecting this climb very manageable. enjoy it for what it is, not what you expect it to be.