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Unsorted Routes:

The Dihedral 

5.6

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Looking across the main face. The most notable li...

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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb ledge to ledge, great stances abound. Plenty of backstep opportunities and no hands rests/placements. This route gets greasy, so it can easily psyche you out. The crux is moving under the roof, which looks intimidating from the ground but all the positive holds are solid making this thing a blast for anyone. Only downside, is you can't get a clean fall with so many ledges.


Location 

The Left most route on the main wall. The obvious Dihedral


Protection 

Big gear down low and normal stuff up top. Use a long runner under the roof to reduce rope drag.



Photos of The Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot of The Dihedral from the Aerial Anticipation Wall.

Another shot of The Dihedral from the Aerial Antic...

Unknown climber on The Dihedral.

Unknown climber on The Dihedral.

About half way up The Dihedral.

About half way up The Dihedral.

Chris' first lead.  WMWR, Zoo Wall, The Dihedral 5.6 Mar 2009

Chris' first lead. WMWR, Zoo Wall, The Dihedral 5...

Chris finds a resting place on the Dihedral.  Mar 2009.

Chris finds a resting place on the Dihedral. Mar ...

Mike with the big cams in tow.  The Dihedral Memorial Day weekend May 2009.

Mike with the big cams in tow. The Dihedral Memor...

Climbing "The Dihedral," Wichita Wildlife Refuge

Climbing "The Dihedral," Wichita Wildlife Refuge

The Dihedral on Zoo Wall.

The Dihedral on Zoo Wall.


Comments on The Dihedral Add Comment
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By Andrew Tower
From: Golden, CO
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.6

the best? i dunno man, the whole thing is slick as snot and I don't think i'd put beginning leaders on it just because of it.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 1, 2007

Although I gave this route a 4 star rating, it is mostly for historic value. Don't be fooled into thinking that this route is the best 5.6 in Oklahoma, let alone the nation. In fact, here is a list of better 5.6's that first time leaders can be psyched on:

Yee Haw; Upper Mt. Scott (3 freaking star route for sure)
Side Saddle: Zoo Wall left
Great Expectations; Elk Slab
Large Corner Girdle; Lichen Wall

Get out and do these routes before you slide off the Dihedral grease-fest!

By furrymurry
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2007

I've never heard anyone call it the best 5.6 in the state. All the same, not a terrible climb, but the rest of the climbs on that face are much better.

By CalebSimpson
Feb 4, 2008
rating: 5.7

Grease fest? I don't recall this route being slick at all. Climbed it twice without any problems. Second time was on TR hauling up as fast as I could to photograph a climber on Crazy Alice. I have heard this is more of a "Level 2" newbie leader climb though, but mostly because of the ledge and use of runners.

By Arnold Braker
From: golden, co
Mar 10, 2008

honestly, this route blows like gums mcgee. It's slick, it's wide, and it's awkward at the bottem. Yuck. Great Expectations is a helluva lot more fun.

If this is the best 5.6 in the nation, American route developers have some serious work to do.

By CalebSimpson
Dec 20, 2008
rating: 5.7

Great classic route. Rating is more around 5.7 now because a lot of moves are polished and the move coming out of the roof is more of a 5.7 move as well. Done this as a second and on lead.

Route can give new leaders a run for their money, there is potential to fall on ledges all the way up, so be careful when protecting. It doesn't hurt to have a #4 on this route either, maybe even two. I think I only placed one though.

By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.7

Felt like 5.7 to me. Similar difficulty to Yellow Corner, and harder than the other 5.6's in the Narrows due to being off-width and slick.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Oct 31, 2011

Point taken on this not being anywhere close to the best state or even area... I have no idea where I'd think I read that from? Great alternative choices for other routes. Now I must contest the assertion that it's a 5.7, because it has jugs the whole way, a no hands stance every 8-10 feet, the crux is all jugs, slick rock isn't a problem given all the back step opportunities.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Oct 31, 2011

I knew I read it somewhere.... "The Dihedral is one of the best 5.6 climb in the southern U.S." - Chuck Lohn author of "The Oklahoma Climber's Guide

By JeffL
Mar 27, 2013

Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam