||Trad, 3 pitches
|Original: || YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||FA Tom Frost and Royal Robbins 5/61, FFA Frank Sacherer and Tom Gerughty 8/64|
|Season: ||Spring - Fall|
|Page Views: ||635|
|Submitted By: ||Tommy L-D on Oct 23, 2010|
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Just before the move left into the second corner s...
Pitch 1: Climb past 2 pitons in the right corner system, then make an awesome blind reach (crux) and climb over into the left corner system, continue up, belay from stance.
Pitch 2: Continue up the crack through various sizes (hands, fingers, offwidth etc) until a notch in the pinnacle.
Pitch 3: Belay from new bolts at a notch, traverse left then continue up the crack system to the top. Slick.
3 Double rope rappels to the ground, depending on which rap anchors you use (hint, swing climbers right to the good bolted anchors at the notch for the second rappel, then swing climbers left to a new bolted anchor for the third rappel)
right side of Slab Happy Pinnacle
Good gear all the way except for the easy traverse at the start of the third pitch.