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The Diamond

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Festoon T 
Psycho Bitch S 
Ruby Shoes T 
Tik Tok T 
Toto T 

The Diamond  


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Location: 61.81501, -149.243 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,432
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008  with updates from coldclimb
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Description 

This is one of the most prominent pieces of stone Archangel Valley. from base to peak, the Diamond is nearly 600 ft in height and contains one of Hatcher's most classic lines, Toto (5.10, Grade III). Along with Toto, there are various other stellar lines here, including Festoon (5.9+) Ruby Shoes (5.7) and Grit Your Teeth (5.10).

Summiting Toto provides breathtaking views across Archangel and Fairangel Gap. From the summit of Toto, it is possible to continue along the ridge through class 4 and moderate class 5 terrain, to climb the pinnacle.

It is important to note that the base of the diamond is marked by a memorial plaque for Steve Garvey, one of the most prolific and dedicated climbers the state of Alaska has ever seen.

Getting There 

Drive down Archangel Rd. till you reach an obvious green out house, looking right at the diamond

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.7 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Diamond:
Ruby Shoes   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Festoon   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Toto   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Diamond

Featured Route For The Diamond
Toto

Toto 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : The Diamond
This route is the gem of Archangel Valley if offers great climbing into the 5.10 range. It begins on the right side of the diamond feature directly across from the American Alpine Club outhouse. The climb begins at the Steve Garvey memorial plaque on the right side of the diamond, although variations exist. Pitch 1: 5.7. Follow the crack system up and slightly left to a bolted belay. Gear to 3-4 inches will be plenty. Pitch 2: 5.7 From the anchor move right and clip a piton, follow the crack sys...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of The Diamond Slideshow Add Photo
Tom Evans on the Webfoot
Tom Evans on the Webfoot

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By Richard Shore
Jun 29, 2013
Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day.