The Diamond / Toto Buttress
This is one of the most prominent pieces of stone Archangel Valley. from base to peak, the Diamond is nearly 600 ft in height and contains one of Hatcher's most classic lines, Toto (5.10, Grade III). Along with Toto, there are various other stellar lines here, including Festoon (5.9+) Ruby Shoes (5.7) and Grit Your Teeth (5.10).
Summiting Toto provides breathtaking views across Archangel and Fairangel Gap. From the summit of Toto, it is possible to continue along the ridge through class 4 and moderate class 5 terrain, to climb the pinnacle.
It is important to note that the base of the diamond is marked by a memorial plaque for Steve Garvey, one of the most prolific and dedicated climbers the state of Alaska has ever seen.
Drive down Archangel Rd. till you reach an obvious green out house, looking right at the diamond
Weather station 15.7 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Diamond
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Diamond:
Ruby Shoes 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Festoon 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Toto 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 6 pitches
Featured Route For The Diamond
Festoon 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b AK
: Anchorage & South Central A...
: ... : The Diamond
An excellent single-pitch route which requires skill at placing small fiddly gear and a cool head to succeed. Slightly uphill and left of Ruby Shoes (5.7) is this attractive thin flake/seam with an obvious "tongue" sticking out at the 20' mark. Climb up the lieback flake as it seams out and becomes a right-facing corner at the top. Two bolts protect the upper corner and topout onto a mossy vegetated ledge. Rappel from two nice ASCA ring bolts towards the left end of the ledge.Some additional not...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
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By Richard Shore
Jun 29, 2013
Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day.