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The Diamond

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Festoon T 
Hatari  T 
Psycho Bitch S 
Ruby Shoes T 
Secret Lover T 
Tik Tok T 
Toto T 
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 
Trusting Aborigines  S 
Unknown T 

The Diamond Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 61.81501, -149.243 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,005
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008  with updates from coldclimb
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This is one of the most prominent pieces of stone Archangel Valley. from base to peak, the Diamond is nearly 600 ft in height and contains one of Hatcher's most classic lines, Toto (5.10, Grade III). Along with Toto, there are various other stellar lines here, including Festoon (5.9+) Ruby Shoes (5.7) and Grit Your Teeth (5.10).

Summiting Toto provides breathtaking views across Archangel and Fairangel Gap. From the summit of Toto, it is possible to continue along the ridge through class 4 and moderate class 5 terrain, to climb the pinnacle.

It is important to note that the base of the diamond is marked by a memorial plaque for Steve Garvey, one of the most prolific and dedicated climbers the state of Alaska has ever seen.

Getting There 

Drive down Archangel Rd. till you reach an obvious green out house, looking right at the diamond

Climbing Season

Weather station 15.7 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Diamond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Diamond:
Ruby Shoes   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Festoon   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Toto   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Diamond

Featured Route For The Diamond
Rock Climbing Photo: Toto

Toto 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : The Diamond
This route is the gem of Archangel Valley if offers great climbing into the 5.10 range. It begins on the right side of the diamond feature directly across from the American Alpine Club outhouse. The climb begins at the Steve Garvey memorial plaque on the right side of the diamond, although variations exist. Pitch 1: 5.7. Follow the crack system up and slightly left to a bolted belay. Gear to 3-4 inches will be plenty. Pitch 2: 5.7 From the anchor move right and clip a piton, follow the crack sys...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of The Diamond Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Evans on the Webfoot
Tom Evans on the Webfoot

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By Richard Shore
Jun 29, 2013
Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day.

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