The Diamond / Toto Buttress
This is one of the most prominent pieces of stone Archangel Valley. from base to peak, the Diamond is nearly 600 ft in height and contains one of Hatcher's most classic lines, Toto (5.10, Grade III). Along with Toto, there are various other stellar lines here, including Festoon (5.9+) Ruby Shoes (5.7) and Grit Your Teeth (5.10).
Summiting Toto provides breathtaking views across Archangel and Fairangel Gap. From the summit of Toto, it is possible to continue along the ridge through class 4 and moderate class 5 terrain, to climb the pinnacle.
It is important to note that the base of the diamond is marked by a memorial plaque for Steve Garvey, one of the most prolific and dedicated climbers the state of Alaska has ever seen.
Drive down Archangel Rd. till you reach an obvious green out house, looking right at the diamond
Weather station 15.7 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Diamond
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Diamond:
Ruby Shoes 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Festoon 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Toto 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 6 pitches
Featured Route For The Diamond
Toto 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b AK
: Anchorage & South Central A...
: ... : The Diamond
This route is the gem of Archangel Valley if offers great climbing into the 5.10 range. It begins on the right side of the diamond feature directly across from the American Alpine Club outhouse. The climb begins at the Steve Garvey memorial plaque on the right side of the diamond, although variations exist. Pitch 1: 5.7. Follow the crack system up and slightly left to a bolted belay. Gear to 3-4 inches will be plenty. Pitch 2: 5.7 From the anchor move right and clip a piton, follow the crack sys...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Richard Shore
Jun 29, 2013
Sunny only until early afternoon, not all day.