||Trad, 8 pitches, 2000', Grade V
|Original: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||F.A. Layton Kor, F.F.A. Eric Dacaria, Jimmy Dunn|
|Season: ||cooler temps, sun after 1pm|
|Page Views: ||699|
|Submitted By: ||Jay 1975 on Jun 20, 2013|
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The crux is definitely the shared last pitch of "Hallucinogen
", 12-. There is a chossy .11 crux with bolts and pins in the middle of the route. It's basically a big adventure outing, fun, and has great views of the wall and other routes. There is some simuling and pitches of 250-400' at times but with easy chimneys and such.
Start soloing as for "Air Voyage
", share 1st pitch of AV
and then bust a right up fun, chossy corner for about 250'. Then just follow the diagonal feature a while. When you approach a huge roof that "Paint it Black/La Visage" goes out, look right for a bolted anchor on an arete. Sick hang over the "Hallucinogen
" route!!! There is draw left on the traverse bolt for pro, and the follower unclips rope and leaves it, especially since you can't reach it to take it off.
The .12-, 30' corner pitch with fixed nuts near th...
The traverse and supposed 5.11? More like .11+ for...