||Trad, 8 pitches, 2000', Grade V
|Original: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||F.A. Layton Kor, F.F.A. Eric Dacaria, Jimmy Dunn|
|Season: ||cooler temps, sun after 1pm|
|Page Views: ||648|
|Submitted By: ||Jay 1975 on Jun 20, 2013|
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The crux is definitely the shared last pitch of "Hallucinogen
", 12-. There is a chossy .11 crux with bolts and pins in the middle of the route. It's basically a big adventure outing, fun, and has great views of the wall and other routes. There is some simuling and pitches of 250-400' at times but with easy chimneys and such.
Start soloing as for "Air Voyage
", share 1st pitch of AV
and then bust a right up fun, chossy corner for about 250'. Then just follow the diagonal feature a while. When you approach a huge roof that "Paint it Black/La Visage" goes out, look right for a bolted anchor on an arete. Sick hang over the "Hallucinogen
" route!!! There is draw left on the traverse bolt for pro, and the follower unclips rope and leaves it, especially since you can't reach it to take it off.
The traverse and supposed 5.11? More like .11+ for...
The .12-, 30' corner pitch with fixed nuts near th...