Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Select Route:
A Rememberance of Jeff 
Autumn Gold 
Backseat Delilah 
BT Express 
Diagonal, The 
Digital Delight 
Flying Frog 
Flying Squirrel 
Highly Wired 
I Yam What I Yam 
Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) 
Mescaline Daydream 
Primitive Paradox 
Punk Wave 
Rapture of the Steep 
Truth or Consequences 
Wings of Wallenda 

The Diagonal 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb, 1977
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Nov 9, 2008
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Climbing one of the many options on The Diagonal, ...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Climb the far left hand crack to a stance on the right face, then "wrassle" your way up into a v notch/off-width nightmare (Yosemite style), keep squirming your way to a rest. Continue up the dihedral/flake to another rest on a big block. You are now on top of the sling nest where the two variations finish and looking up at more "wrassling" in another v notch. Okay, so now, gear, smear on crappy feet and finger lock your way to a hand jam. Gear. And continue to the fixed hex and the top. And don't forget the occasional back/butt smear.

The bolt is no more.

There are two additional starts to the right...one is 5.8, the other 5.9. These both end at slings and biners about 60 feet up.


Location 

Walk around the corner from Flying Frog to a large right-angling dihedral.


Protection 

Trad. Fixed hex and sling with biner at the top.



Comments on The Diagonal Add Comment
Show which comments
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 20, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This is a good pitch, not quite on par with the classics, but well worth doing. I did the normal start and thought it was way light for 10d, 10b is more like it. Protects well, so jump on it.

By jeep gaskin
Aug 10, 2010

try this. take whichever start you want and climb until the crack necks down and belay. it's about 100 feet. look left. there is a flake with thin tips leading to a corner. climb that. go up the corner, out the blocky roof and exit onto the face. short, but exposed and excellent.