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The Devil's Slide
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The Devil's Slide 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: KM Lawder, J Logan, June 1961
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 8, 2010

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Looking down the Devil's Slide from above


1. Start from the platform and climb directly up the slab (right of center) to a break. Belay.

2. Continue on up the slab to a poor belay at the good half way break.

3. Moving slightly right continue up the white scoop delicately. The higher you go the better the gear placement are.

4. Continue on up the right edge of the slab until you reach the headwall. Traverse left below the wall and finish up the left side.

An alternative (harder) more direct finish can be done up the cracks on the right of the headwall.


Right side of the slab


Trad Rack

Photos of The Devil's Slide Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil's Slide, Lundy
The Devil's Slide, Lundy
Rock Climbing Photo: slide ab
slide ab
Rock Climbing Photo: slabbage

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By Euan Cameron
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Feb 8, 2010

If you think you'd like to run the 1st and 2nd pitches together don't!! The rope drag on the slab is terrible, and if you only have a 50m rope it won't reach. I tried it and was forced to down-climb a very nervous 80 ft of polished slab with only one piece of gear to get to the belay (it would have been easier to solo the thing).
By Nick Russell
From: Bristol, UK
Sep 25, 2013

An alternative to the poor belay at the top of P2 is to move right and belay to the abseil block. Contrary to Euan's experience, I didn't have too much trouble with running the first two pitches together but I did take quite a direct line with very few runners...
By Euan Cameron
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 7, 2014

Yeah back n the day when ropes were only 45m long it wasn't long enough. I guess 50m ropes would be OK, but the friction of the rope on the slab would still be a pain.

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