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The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...
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By TravisK
From Madison
Jul 23, 2014
Waiting out the rain at Devils Lake State Park, WI
I cant even...
I cant even...


A thing of beauty!

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By Tom Lausch
From Madison WI
Jul 23, 2014
Chips and Salsa
I love the opposite opposed locker that is going through one piece. Must have been running low on slings! HA

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By Al Wiberg
Jul 25, 2014
Mixed Climb @ Casket Quarry, Duluth MN
It still amazes me how social media works. I took this photo back in early June while assisting with a PCIA course on Brinton's and posted to Facebook and now it made it here!

Devils Lake is a fantastic place to climb and a great place to teach anchor courses for this reason! Students get plenty of opportunities to walk around and critique poorly constructed anchors and see how they can improve the marginal ones.

If you are new to climbing and even a "seasoned" climber, please look a taking a professional level climbing course from an organization such as PCIA, AMGA or PCGI. All these organizations offer great courses and you will be amazed how much you will learn!

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By Tab Yaj
From Minneapolis, MN
Jul 30, 2014
July,2014.
July,2014.

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By Bob Woods
From Appleton, WI
Aug 6, 2014
These sketchy anchors remind me of some that I've seen people set at high cliff from time to time just a few weeks ago I came up on an older guy which surprised me slightly but age doesn't necessarily equal experience who had a 15 foot piece of webbing tied to a bench and a old biner not even over the edge of the sharp cliff face so his rope was rubbing on the edge and was rappelling down to belay his 16 year old kids, what a great dad (sarcastically)

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By al grahn
Aug 7, 2014
Andreis, you really squeezed a pimple here, didn't you? I've been climbing at the Lake for about 35 years. So I guess I'm an "old geezer". I don't see this as a conflict between the "Geezers" and the "Young Guns". Climbing is multidimensional. If you've only climbed in the gym and at sport crags, you've only explored one dimension. There is, and should be, room in the wide world of climbing for practitioners of all the styles and dimensions of the sport we all love, from high altitude mountaineering to alpine climbing, to hard crag climbing with gear only, to aid climbing, etc. Thankfully, I meet and talk to young climbers who are interested in all of these other aspects of the sport. For many climbers learning to set top rope anchors is the first step toward exploring the wider world off climbing. It's safe to say that no one would go to an area that has been developed as a sport crag and start pulling bolts. The bolt wars were hashed out in the nineties. Likewise, not every climb and every crag needs to be safe for democracy. Many people of all ages and levels of experience crave the sense of adventure and satisfaction that comes from mastering the skills necessary to do routes that require much more than the power and gymnastic ability to pull hard moves. I think all of us who consider ourselves traditionalists respect sport climbing as a fun and valid style of climbing. So, Andreis, I think you owe the same respect to the many people of all ages who stand behind the established Devils Lake ethic. In the words of my good friend Tommy "back down chumpster!" As has been pointed out, it is moot anyway.

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By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
3 days ago
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt
First of all put me down for a +1 on this - great words Al.

al grahn wrote:
Andreis, you really squeezed a pimple here, didn't you? I've been climbing at the Lake for about 35 years. So I guess I'm an "old geezer". I don't see this as a conflict between the "Geezers" and the "Young Guns". Climbing is multidimensional. If you've only climbed in the gym and at sport crags, you've only explored one dimension. There is, and should be, room in the wide world of climbing for practitioners of all the styles and dimensions of the sport we all love, from high altitude mountaineering to alpine climbing, to hard crag climbing with gear only, to aid climbing, etc. Thankfully, I meet and talk to young climbers who are interested in all of these other aspects of the sport. For many climbers learning to set top rope anchors is the first step toward exploring the wider world off climbing. It's safe to say that no one would go to an area that has been developed as a sport crag and start pulling bolts. The bolt wars were hashed out in the nineties. Likewise, not every climb and every crag needs to be safe for democracy. Many people of all ages and levels of experience crave the sense of adventure and satisfaction that comes from mastering the skills necessary to do routes that require much more than the power and gymnastic ability to pull hard moves. I think all of us who consider ourselves traditionalists respect sport climbing as a fun and valid style of climbing. So, Andreis, I think you owe the same respect to the many people of all ages who stand behind the established Devils Lake ethic. In the words of my good friend Tommy "back down chumpster!" As has been pointed out, it is moot anyway.


Second here's another good one from this past weekend:


Umm...
Umm...

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By Tom Lausch
From Madison WI
19 hours ago
Chips and Salsa
I dont even know what is going on in that last one. I don't even see the edge of the cliff. God forbid one of those blows. The extension on that would be scary.

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By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
15 hours ago
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt
Tom Lausch wrote:
I dont even know what is going on in that last one. I don't even see the edge of the cliff. God forbid one of those blows. The extension on that would be scary.


Or sole the biner that is cross-loaded over an edge fails, or any part of the cord fails. If either of those non-redundancies goes, then the whole thing fails - catastrophically. When confronted with some suggestions about how to improve the setup, the owner of all that shiny new gear insisted that my partner and I didn't know what we were talking about, and that he (in his vast experience) was certain the anchor was bomber.

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By Tom Lausch
From Madison WI
moments ago
Chips and Salsa
James M Schroeder wrote:
Or sole the biner that is cross-loaded over an edge fails, or any part of the cord fails. If either of those non-redundancies goes, then the whole thing fails - catastrophically. When confronted with some suggestions about how to improve the setup, the owner of all that shiny new gear insisted that my partner and I didn't know what we were talking about, and that he (in his vast experience) was certain the anchor was bomber.


Just tell him you wont be carrying him down the stairs when it does blow.

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