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The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...
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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jun 6, 2013
hi

This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier!

from above
from above


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Jun 6, 2013
modern man

you could probably fill 2 pages here on Mtn Proj every Monday morning with weekend TR photos.

I think CT and WI need to have a TR anchor forum created


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 6, 2013
Stoked...

jon jugenheimer wrote:
This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier!


Dat ain't perdy but that one looks bomber actually... come to CT and TR wit some twig anchors! I think folks in CT get their thrills these days with sketchy TR anchors rather then sketch climbing.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Jun 6, 2013
modern man

CaptainMo wrote:
Dat ain't perdy but that one looks bomber actually... come to CT and TR wit some twig anchors! I think folks in CT get their thrills these days with sketchy TR anchors rather then sketch climbing.



A pic of a 6" diameter tree being used by 3 parties at once would be a good one.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 6, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

jon jugenheimer wrote:
This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier!


This is why I have a few 'miles' of tubular webbing and head back from cliff edge to find that massive boulder or tree instead of the nut-clusterfuk' often seen. I really try to avoid anchors placed on the very edge of the cliffs if at all possible, AND never cross the trail with anchors. Best yet, go to out of the way spots where it doesn't matter.


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By EB
From Winona
Jun 6, 2013

Static line is the way.


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By Bill Thompson
Jun 10, 2013
Everest Base Camp

Hey Jon- not just Devil's lake (unless you guys travel up here to ice climb) Hard to see but about twenty feet between anchors, 20 feet away from cliff line.  Rope formed a perfect square
Hey Jon- not just Devil's lake (unless you guys travel up here to ice climb) Hard to see but about twenty feet between anchors, 20 feet away from cliff line. Rope formed a perfect square


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By angieL
From Madison, WI
Jun 14, 2013
axe in dryerhose

While on top of the East Rampart the other weekend to teach an anchor building clinic (which maybe some people on this thread should look into...) saw a doozy of an anchor. Unfortunately no pics, but I can assure you it was set off a dead tree, and I think it had one other little piece in it. If we would have seen the setters I'd have invited them to join us!


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By Steve Heikkila
Jun 16, 2013

Wow, those are some jive-ass anchors. They should be here: jive-assanchors.com


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By Megan Buckets
Jun 17, 2013
little cottonwood canyon fashion

hey! anyone want to climb this week?! I am flying in from Salt Lake City and am bringing my rope and rack... unlike the kooks you've seen out setting terrible and dangerous TR anchors, I am competent and experienced.

I have a wedding on Friday and family stuff on Saturday... available tuesday-thursday and sunday-monday.

Megan

megan.c.johnston@gmail.com


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By Tito Krull
Jun 17, 2013

Megan Buckets wrote:
hey! anyone want to climb this week?! I am flying in from Salt Lake City and am bringing my rope and rack... unlike the kooks you've seen out setting terrible and dangerous TR anchors, I am competent and experienced. I have a wedding on Friday and family stuff on Saturday... available tuesday-thursday and sunday-monday. Megan megan.c.johnston@gmail.com


Hey Megan if I can find a ride down there I am totally down to climb I'm free all the time, my email is titokrull@hotmail.com and my number is 920 250 1621feel free to use both.


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By Tito Krull
Jun 19, 2013

Yo people gonna be hitting the lake on Thursday through Monday looking to splitting campsite hit me up by phone 920 250 1621 have rope and gear


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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
May 19, 2014
hi

Let's get this going again! "Quality" humor while at work, and just happy that the engineers at the climbing companies over build gear so people don't actually get hurt while participating in this sport...

A nice little pic from this past week sent to me from a friend.

open gate!
open gate!


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By Tom Lausch
From Madison WI
May 19, 2014
Chips and Salsa

Not sure whats worse. The open gate, or the fact that even if they did flip it the spine would be loaded across that rock edge. Either way you have got to love the sh** show that happens every weekend at the lake.


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By Paul Leverich
May 19, 2014
Leading Cox hollow Right side

That looks bomber compared to some stuff I've seen. The worst anchor was directly under balanced rock I watched the guy lower his girlfriend off and he asked if I wanted to take a ride before they left I topped out and took one look at one sling tied around balanced rock and the rope run through the sling no biners. He asked if I wanted to lower off. I said f**K no and tried to explain that he could have killed his girlfriend. I can only guess the fact it was a new rope with a waxy dry treatment kept the friction down.


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By Climber26
May 19, 2014

I'll remember this thread and take some pictures this year. Last year I saw a boyscout group with two anchor webbings running back and that's great only both points went to the same 3 inch tree. Also the group that had no clue that the routes at the lake are name and have a ratings. Their anchors where a whole other story. The cordellete looked like a cross all points were 90 degrees or more.


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By EB
From Winona
May 20, 2014

I was as usual appalled by what I saw at the east bluff last weekend. The boyscout groups were a junk show as usual but what was way worse were the groups led by "guides" teaching anchor courses. They have very little knowledge of current techniques and would have had many automatic fails in any professional climbing guide or instructor certification exam. How the hell do people run these organizations? Its sad when you have to thank people for simply setting up solid and safe TR anchors....


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By Terry Kieck
May 20, 2014

Thoroughfare "set up" mid last last week.

The tree at the top near edge had one single sling wrapped around the tree a bunch of times with both ends clipped for the entire anchor. They did have two opposed biners though... Plus it wasn't even at the base of the tree is was about 3 feet up adding more stress to the one tree anchor that leans over the cliff edge!


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By alpinejason
From Eau Claire
May 20, 2014

What's the solution to this? It's easy to sit back and laugh or cringe at these terrible anchors, but how does the DL rock climbing community make this better?

I'll typically only say something to these parties if they're actually unsafe and can potentially injure someone. It's usually not worth the argument. People are defensive. You've all been there I'm sure.

I teach anchoring at the lake, albeit not very often because people don't want to pay for something they think they already know or might be able to figure out on their own. One of the best teaching elements I do as part of my course is walk around and look at other anchor setups after we've had the morning to discuss and practice.

The Lake is getting more crowded and bad anchoring techniques are propagating. Those we criticize in this thread aren't on MP to read of their mistakes or learn from others. How do we inform and educate these climbers and trip leaders?


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 20, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.

Terry Kieck wrote:
Thoroughfare "set up" mid last last week. The tree at the top near edge had one single sling wrapped around the tree a bunch of times with both ends clipped for the entire anchor. They did have two opposed biners though... Plus it wasn't even at the base of the tree is was about 3 feet up adding more stress to the one tree anchor that leans over the cliff edge!


Terry, I have to admit that was me ... it was a rap anchor and the only gear I had on hand. It was high for ease of rapping. Funny enough, none of the "kids" used it, just me!


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 20, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.

It's tough knowing what to say about ungraceful anchors, even with people in your own group. On the one hand, I want new folks to learn to set boringly solid anchors that are quick, efficient, and rely mainly on gear not trees. On the other hand, I want them to be encouraged to think for themselves, to understand when less-than-perfect is still acceptable ... and maybe to see what happens when an anchor point fails (just one anchor point out of three, please) so they can better visualize what they are guarding against.

When I teach people statistical programming, I accept answers other than my preferred answer as long as it's not horribly inefficient. And I like them to see some of the error messages they will inevitably have to deal with in real programming work. What counts most is that they thought it through themselves and came up with the correct final answer.

With friends new to climbing, I often take the approach "that'll work, but here's why I would have done this." With people I don't know, I seldom intervene unless I think someone will get hurt ... either climbers or someone hiking the trail!


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By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
May 23, 2014
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt

My typical response (or lack thereof) to bad anchors depends on my evaluation of the probability of failure. I rate and respond to anchors in this way.

  • I would comfortably and repeatedly tie my wife, son and self into that and factor two onto it.
  • I would comfortably and repeatedly factor two onto it. (This is the minimum I accept for climbing, even on top rope)
  • I am sufficiently comfortable being in the vicinity because I think that anchor will fail only about 1 in 10,000 times.
  • I am uncomfortable being in the vicinity because I think that anchor will fail 1 in 1,000 times. (This is where I tend to say something or leave the vicinity)
  • You or your friends are going to die today (Say something)
  • You or your friends are going to die right now (Say something)

The few times I have said something to strangers I have not gotten a positive response. At that point I tend to walk away if I think the anchor is bad enough - I do not want to be around for someone's big ride. People are sketchy, I am surprised we do not have more accidents. The fact is there is no reason not to have SERENE top rope anchor at Devil's Lake, anything less is laziness or incompetence. A few times I have made the mistake of hopping on a top rope sight unseen and been terrified upon topping out to see the setup. Now, if I or someone I trust a lot did not setup or check out the anchor I do not climb on it.


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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
May 23, 2014
Devil's Doorway "summit"

James did you hit them on the head with a tack hammer?

Man it's nice out. Being a working stiff blows. I'd like to be out screwing up a toprope anchor.


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By James M Schroeder
From Sauk County, WI
May 23, 2014
Photo by Pete "Coach" Arndt

Chris treggE wrote:
James did you hit them on the head with a tack hammer? Man it's nice out. Being a working stiff blows. I'd like to be out screwing up a toprope anchor.


If I only had one in my pack. And yes it was nice out today, I got up to the East about 3pm and down a little after 8pm. Not a climber up there outside of the folks I was hanging with.


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By Tom Lausch
From Madison WI
Jul 9, 2014
Chips and Salsa

The Cluster Part
The Cluster Part


The F**ked Part
The F**ked Part


Take a look at these gems! The crabs at the anchor point had at least 1 locker and 1 hardware store abomination. The cord they were using appeared to be almost brand new 11 mil.


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