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Tarot Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
Tower, The S 
Wheel of Fortune S 

The Devil 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Jessica True, 2001
Page Views: 3,505
Submitted By: TBD on Oct 18, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: The Devil is the second bolted route from the left...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The second bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start at a tree stump about 30' right of Earth Angel.

Ascend a steep face on thin holds. It has sustained difficulty after a rest by the third bolt. The crux comes at a bulge above a horizontal crack about halfway up. Near the top, you can move right then back up left for the easiest line, or climb straight up past the last bolt for a harder variation.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of The Devil Slideshow Add Photo
Bart Calkins nearing the top.
Bart Calkins nearing the top.
Bart Calkins starting up the route.
Bart Calkins starting up the route.
Bart Calkins heading for the last bolt.
Bart Calkins heading for the last bolt.
OS on the Devil. <br />Nice work, Glen.
OS on the Devil.
Nice work, Glen.
Comments on The Devil Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 26, 2013
By BoulderCharles
Aug 17, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

The first bolt needs some attention. The bolt itself is loose in the hole (I tried to tighten the nut, but it just turned the whole thing). I'm more than happy to help fix this if someone has the skills and supplies.

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Jun 22, 2005

Look for a 6" tall, WAY overused 'cheater-stump' at the base of this climb. For .11d, it seems reasonable that the line runs straight through the flared crack at the top (look at Ron Olsen's third photo below), and not right then back left to the rings. Much easier to bypass the would-be crux if you do go right at the flared crack, then back left again at the rings.~Wm

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

When I got on this I thought I was warming up on a 10d and looked at the top move and balked- I cheated right by grabbing an edge around the corner. Then I came down and did it direct and decided that it was pretty doable that way too, but the feet are somewhat poor. I think it was easy 5.11 (11a or 11b) if done directly through the flared crack, moderate 5.10 (10b or 10c) if cheating to the right up top. Regardless, fun and pumpy.

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Jul 16, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Perhaps the nicest route we climbed today! Felt like 5.11b/c, not as hard as Chairman of the Board.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2008

Really fun route with good movement and good bolting. Agree it's more like 11b/c (and I went pretty much straight up at the end). Get on it!

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
May 17, 2009

I made the mistake of warming up on this. We didn't know what it was, but it looked fun. Talk about a flash pump!

By Caleb Phillips
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Solid 11b or easy 11c IMHO. Previous comments about bailing right towards the gully at the flaring crack are dead-on. There are also some sidepulls left just above the horizontal sloper/crack which I'd say need to be off-route for it to be 11b. With a little wandering left and right, it's still probably 10c or 10d.

Fantastic climb overall. Sustained with interesting moves. Bolting is very safe and well done.

By Wilky
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2011

I left a pair of cracked Ray Bans at the bottom of this route on Saturday the 18th of June, 2011. I would really appreciate if they found their way back to me. Thank you so much. My email is christopher.wilkinson@colorado.edu

By BrendanP
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Jul 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Worrying about what's "on" or "off" is only going to tarnish the quality of this route, just pick the line that you like best and fire away! Searching out the easiest holds puts the grade on the easy side of 11 for sure.

By mrbiscoop
May 26, 2013

As with every sport route I've led, so long as I'm within arms length of the bolts, then I am on route.