The Devil Made Me Dog It 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Jerry Handren, 1992 |
| Submitted By: | nhclimber on Aug 31, 2009 |
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Description Middle of the cave there is a protruding block, this is the start of the climb. Look close and you can see bat hook holes from Space Case, as the aid route was known. Climb the block and clip a bolt, make a powerful mantle/rockover move (I clip the second bolt mid mantle) into some good holds. Clip 1 more bolt and set up for the crux reach on good if small holds. One more bolt and commit to the exit onto the block belay. One bolt make the anchor.
Location Middle of the cave between The Mercy and Grandmother's Challenge.
Protection 5 bolts
| Comments on The Devil Made Me Dog It |
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By Pat McGinn Sep 21, 2009 rating: 5.12a/b
| There is a two bolt ring anchor now. |
By nhclimber From: Newmarket, NH Oct 26, 2009
| it just won't go!!!!!!! |
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Sep 12, 2010
| This route is so aptly named! Party of me loves it for the moves and fun falls. The other half hates the part of me that loves such an obviously manufactured route :/ |
By Jerry Handren Sep 12, 2010
| There are no chipped holds on this route, so I don't know where "obviously manufactured" comes from. Possibly some grinding from Dry toolers. If fact rumours of chipping in the cave went way over the top. Stevie chipped The Mercy, I reinforced that big flake on Sanctuary with glue (apparently liquid nails works pretty well since its still there !!) and beat a crumbling finger edge into a solid sloper up high, but that was the only chipping that I'm aware of, none of the other routes had any chipping at all. |
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Sep 12, 2010
| Thanks for setting me straight Jerry. The hold I'm referring to is the jug just before the crux. It looks as though it was chipped out of the chossey band of rock it was in, there were even 2 circular wholes in the bank that look and offal lot like drill holes. I certainly trust your word though and will chock these impressions up to a hold that "looks" manufactured in a place with a bad rap for chipping. |
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