The Deviant  V9

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Type:  Boulder Consensus:  V9 [details] FA:  first known: J. Jaeger Submitted By:  j.jaeger on Jun 13, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Problem I: Start the same as the seam traverse but cut straight up the wall just after the midpoint on the boulder with an obvious line of edges and crimps that thin as you progress up the face. Just before the top, there is a thank-God jug you stab up and left, but keep it together for the final lockoff to gain the final slopers. This line has great tension-rich lockoff moves and is a tad harder than 'Via the Hot One' in Frisco, which I did the same day.

I had to clean the thin crux crimps on rappel, which were filled with puzzel-piece factured stone and a healthy bit of lichen/moss. This one probably was an FA.

Protection 

Few pads / crux is right above the naturally tiered landing, so a spotter may save an ankle.