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Deacon Variation 
Devastating Reverend Tom, The 
Empire of Dirt 
Skip and Sandy 
Tweekers 
Under Wicked Skies 

The Devastating Reverend Tom 

V10

   
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Type: Boulder, 16 feet
Consensus: V10 [details]
FA: ?
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Dec 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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start low on small sidepulls and power on up.

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Description 

Sit start with hands on sidepulls the right one being very small and with a decent foot, move your right hand first to a slopey crimp/sidepull with a small thumbcatch, then comes the crux move to what has been described as an ear, it is a two finger crimp or a horrible gaston so pick you poison. From there dyno up and right and finish with Skip and Sandy (V3).


Location 

On the Skip and Sandy Boulder on the opposite side as the road just right of the left arete.


Protection 

Pad and a spotter.



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By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Feb 19, 2010
rating: V10

There is a variation to this problem which starts the same, but instead of going to the ear, jump to a slopey jug on the arete at v6 - v8 maybe (it's height dependent). And starting sitting on the left arete and heading up is v4 or so.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 19, 2010

Yeah I posted the arete variation as "Under Wicked Skies". Do you think I have missed anything on the description, I cannot boulder this hard but I spotted someone on it so I posted it. What you think?

Check it out here... Under Wicked Skies

By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Feb 22, 2010
rating: V10

It looks good to me! I like these problems a lot - it's hard to beat having such high-quality boulders just sitting literally on the side of the road like this.