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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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The Detour 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Joseffa Meir, March 2001. (?)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 24, 2001
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

West Ridge in the "Construction Zone". This is the hanging headwall and higher dihedrals above the routes Lunar Avenue & Dr. Michael Solar and just left of the route Highway 61.

Head up any of the routes on the Lunar Ave. buttress, or walk to the top of it from the left. Climb 80' or so of broken rock to a large pine tree (no fixed anchor) at a broken red band below a wide roof. Pass the roof at a seam through it's shortest overhang and into a few seam. This is P2 of Highway 61.

Rather than pull up and into the various seams, (which head somewhat left), continue straight up the face for a few feet and then pull right onto a nice face, passing features & incipient cracks for 80'. This is The Detour (5.9+, S). Again, you will arrive on another big ledge below a set of several dihedrals (P3 of Highway 61, 10b, Fork In the Road, 5.8, and Road Narrows 5.10. This ledge will be reached 10-15 feet to the right of a large crack, which is the top of P2 of Highway 61.

Protection is adequate, but not great. The route is safe for advanced leaders. It is committing and there are some moderate runouts that can not be avoided.


Protection 

Standard rack?



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