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This challenging route makes for a worthy objective once you've done the better known lines on Dirt wall. While it is somewhat of a variation to Sinister Dane the moves are fun and the line flows well. Just as good as Sinister Dane and it would be three stars if it was the only line in that area of the wall, the Dirt Wall rock quality keeping it from being four stars.
Begin with a burly core intensive boulder problem off the ledge V8 or so, (pre-clip the first two bolts) to a good rest over the lip. Here join Sinister Dane through its double bump crimp crux while clipping the bolts to the left in the black streak. Where Sinister Dane cuts right, continue up on fantastic rock with good feet and marginal hand holds for the red-point crux. Latch the horizontal break and continue up the shared finish with Sinister Dane and Insider Trading, which you probably have wired by this time.
Begins off the same ledge out the left side of the cave as Sinister Dane and Full Penetration. Clip the bolts a few feet left of Sinister Dane and climb out the overhanging arete. Once on the hanging face join Sinister Dane for a few moves but continue straight up where Sinister Dane breaks right. At the horizontal finish with Sinister Dane and Insider Trading.
9 Bolts to Anchors, mandatory pre-clipping of the first 2 to keep you off the ledge. The first bolt being just off the ledge to keep the rope out of your way. I used a long sling on the 1st and 7th bolts, and ended up skipping the 3rd and 6th bolts.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 3, 2013
I don't think one could be any more prepared for an attempt of the route. This is an excellent write up.