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The Delicate Sound of Thunder 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Wonderly, Marge Floyd, & Dave Evans - 1988
Page Views: 5,708
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Vitaliy on the arete of P2 of Delicate Sound of Th...

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Description 

One of my favorite short trad climbs of all time! Two excellent pitches are different in character but both technical and delicate. Not nearly as scary as the guide makes it out to be. Start on the front of the Our Father/Wholesome Fullback pinnacle at a thin crack and face.

P1: Climb straight up past a few bolts to a mantle ledge, clip the bolt above from this ledge, shake out, then reverse the mantle and finger traverse right for a ways until a weakness allows you to pull the roof and climb back left (an RP is useful to protect this "scary" section). Belay in a little hole with a nest of decent gear. 5.11a.

P2: Climb out right to the exposed, sharp, arete and up this past several bolts. Pull onto the face and continue up easier (possibly loose) rock until a final mantle lands you at the top of the pillar. 5.11a.

Rap Our Father.

Protection 

Mostly small gear including a set of RP's. Quickdraws.


Photos of The Delicate Sound of Thunder Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2 comes up the arete on the skyline. A perfe...
Pitch 2 comes up the arete on the skyline. A perfe...
Almost to the first bolt on Delicate Sound of Thun...
Almost to the first bolt on Delicate Sound of Thun...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 20, 2015
By DEE
Apr 6, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

On the FA I tried to go direct on the first pitch but couldn't and eventually launched out right. Dave was able to place a large cam (#4) high on the second pitch in an inobvious square hole on the left side of the arete. I remember that he was pretty happy to get a cam out there. It was butt-cold during the FA and we had down jackets that I think we even climbed in.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Jul 20, 2009

You guys put up awesome routes, cheers :-)
By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Aug 15, 2009

way cool route with lots of "a-ha" sequences. do it.
By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I thought it was a bit scary. Cool route (we like em a bit scary).
By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 22, 2011

Stellar. One of the best routes in its grade in all of Red Rock.
By Bob Rotert
Apr 20, 2011

Daves & Marge, one of my favorite routes at Red Rocks! An awesome climb!
By Stone Nude
Oct 16, 2011

Replaced P2 bolts last spring. Thanks to ASCA for the hardware.
By Rob Fielding
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Great route! First pitch is pretty burly, and I was just following it. The bolts need replacement on the first pitch so be very careful. Bring some small gear including rps.
By Short Fall Sean
From: Long Beach, CA
Apr 1, 2013

This route is outrageously good. I'm surprised it doesn't get more hype. The traverse on p1 seemed substantially harder than anything on p2. So maybe 11b for one and 11a for two. I'd put it in the category of "scary" but not "holy shit, I'm gonna die". I followed p1 so I didn't look too carefully, but I remember the bolts looking fine.
By Phil Esra
Apr 4, 2013

I didn't find the "10c 15 feet out from the bolt" on p1 to be particularly scary. The fall doesn't look like it would be that bad. I *was* scared on crappy thin gear before the (high) first bolt. Amazing line, max stars.
By Mostafa
From: Alameda, CA
Jan 29, 2014

P2 was amazing one of the best pitches I've done in Red Rock. P2 felt easier and less committing then the move out of the traverse on P1.
By Austin Boren
From: las vegas Nevada
Jan 29, 2014

both pitches on this are awesome. P1 felt hard for the grade. Bring a camera!
By FCJohn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 20, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

This route is incredible! A few notes:
The P1 belay is NOT bolted. There is a safe belay stance in a dark varnished pod, but I brought minimal gear on the lead, so I had to get very creative to build a safe belay with minimal gear. There was a bolted belay/rap anchor off route about 30 feet diagonally up and to climbers left, but our belay spot set us up nicely for the direct line up to the arete.

The moves to the first bolt are more easily protected than it looks from the ground. These were protected by a #1 BD, blue master cam and a perfect nut.

After the mantle move and cliping the high bolt, I attempted a very hard no-hands, foot traverse which lead me out into no-man's-land where I attempted a sideways dino to a very bad crimp.....don't do this. Once I realized that you needed to climb down from the ledge and hand traverse the rail, the sequence was easy.

P2 arete was wild and unlike anything in RR. Well protected and never desperate, but the exposure was out of control. You'll need to save some finger sized pieces to build a belay on top of the our father pilar.

Do this route!
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