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The Day of the Litheon.
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 620 ft (188 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Andy Ross Paul Ross 27th May 2011 |
Page Views: | 720 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Paul Ross on Jun 18, 2011 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Starts about about 40' left of the scramble up to the Great White Ridge. Look for a brown slab a few feet above the floor of the canyon. A fine expedition style climb with over all quite good rock. Four of the belays are with cams and stoppers. The descent is made from the traverse at the end of the sixth pitch that enables an escape down the raps of the Great White Ridge.
P1) Climb rounded slab ridge passed two bolts then easier rock to a right facing corner and double anchors.200' 5.7+.
P2) Climb up past two bolts and good pocket cams to a big ledge, belay in back of groove with cams and stoppers. 60' 5.9
P3)Face climb past two bolts,cams and nuts. At about 80' a 4" cam protects a 20' down climb into the big chimney on the left. Cam belays in back of chimney.100' 5.7.
P4)Stem up and clip bolt and face climb up crack to the ridge to cam and stopper belay. 40'5.8.
P5) Carry on up the ridge past tricky buldge (cam pro) . Then straight up open groove to step right to a big ledge on the right. Small cam Belay. 120'5.7. This belay is at the start of the traverse right to the Great White Ridge.
P6) From the ledge traverse right past a bolt to a notch in the ridge. Rap anchors a few feet down the groove. 70' 5.6.
Descent one singe rope rap then two double rope raps to the ground.
P1) Climb rounded slab ridge passed two bolts then easier rock to a right facing corner and double anchors.200' 5.7+.
P2) Climb up past two bolts and good pocket cams to a big ledge, belay in back of groove with cams and stoppers. 60' 5.9
P3)Face climb past two bolts,cams and nuts. At about 80' a 4" cam protects a 20' down climb into the big chimney on the left. Cam belays in back of chimney.100' 5.7.
P4)Stem up and clip bolt and face climb up crack to the ridge to cam and stopper belay. 40'5.8.
P5) Carry on up the ridge past tricky buldge (cam pro) . Then straight up open groove to step right to a big ledge on the right. Small cam Belay. 120'5.7. This belay is at the start of the traverse right to the Great White Ridge.
P6) From the ledge traverse right past a bolt to a notch in the ridge. Rap anchors a few feet down the groove. 70' 5.6.
Descent one singe rope rap then two double rope raps to the ground.
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