The Day of the Litheon.  5.9

216 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 620 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Andy Ross Paul Ross 27th May 2011 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  USBRIT on Jun 18, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

A) The Day of the Litheon 5.9 B) The Great White R...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Starts about about 40' left of the scramble up to the Great White Ridge. Look for a brown slab a few feet above the floor of the canyon. A fine expedition style climb with over all quite good rock. Four of the belays are with cams and stoppers. The descent is made from the traverse at the end of the sixth pitch that enables an escape down the raps of the Great White Ridge.

P1) Climb rounded slab ridge passed two bolts then easier rock to a right facing corner and double anchors.200' 5.7+.
P2) Climb up past two bolts and good pocket cams to a big ledge, belay in back of groove with cams and stoppers. 60' 5.9
P3)Face climb past two bolts,cams and nuts. At about 80' a 4" cam protects a 20' down climb into the big chimney on the left. Cam belays in back of chimney.100' 5.7.
P4)Stem up and clip bolt and face climb up crack to the ridge to cam and stopper belay. 40'5.8.
P5) Carry on up the ridge past tricky buldge (cam pro) . Then straight up open groove to step right to a big ledge on the right. Small cam Belay. 120'5.7. This belay is at the start of the traverse right to the Great White Ridge.
P6) From the ledge traverse right past a bolt to a notch in the ridge. Rap anchors a few feet down the groove. 70' 5.6.

Descent one singe rope rap then two double rope raps to the ground.

Location 

Two Fingers Canyon . South end of the Great White Wall.

Protection 

Cams 1/4" to 4" ,slings ,stoppers , two 60m ropes.

Photos of The Day of the Litheon. Slideshow

Add Photo

Andy starting P1	Paul just below belay of first pitch	Start of P2
Andy on P3	Stemming on start of P4	Back on the ridge P4
Andy on P5	On P5	Andy following the traverse to the Great White Rid...
View from the start of the descent down the ridge.	Rapping the ridge	Back to the pack protector