Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Sushi . T 
Afternoon Tea. 5.7-R T,S 
Anglo/Japanese Route, The T 
Bon Voyage T 
Color of Spring T 
Day of the Litheon., The T 
Eccentric Spiderman T 
Escape, The T 
Firth of Forth T 
Focus Pocus T 
Gang of Four T 
Great White Fright. T 
Great White Ridge, The T 
Moonbeam T 
No Faith T 
Peenut Gallery. T,S 
PG Tips. . T,S 
Reef Sport Climb. 5.8+R S 
Solstice T 
Spidermans Day Off .5.5R T 

The Day of the Litheon. 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 620', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Andy Ross Paul Ross 27th May 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 274
Submitted By: USBRIT on Jun 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Andy on P5

Description 

Starts about about 40' left of the scramble up to the Great White Ridge. Look for a brown slab a few feet above the floor of the canyon. A fine expedition style climb with over all quite good rock. Four of the belays are with cams and stoppers. The descent is made from the traverse at the end of the sixth pitch that enables an escape down the raps of the Great White Ridge.

P1) Climb rounded slab ridge passed two bolts then easier rock to a right facing corner and double anchors.200' 5.7+.
P2) Climb up past two bolts and good pocket cams to a big ledge, belay in back of groove with cams and stoppers. 60' 5.9
P3)Face climb past two bolts,cams and nuts. At about 80' a 4" cam protects a 20' down climb into the big chimney on the left. Cam belays in back of chimney.100' 5.7.
P4)Stem up and clip bolt and face climb up crack to the ridge to cam and stopper belay. 40'5.8.
P5) Carry on up the ridge past tricky buldge (cam pro) . Then straight up open groove to step right to a big ledge on the right. Small cam Belay. 120'5.7. This belay is at the start of the traverse right to the Great White Ridge.
P6) From the ledge traverse right past a bolt to a notch in the ridge. Rap anchors a few feet down the groove. 70' 5.6.

Descent one singe rope rap then two double rope raps to the ground.

Location 

Two Fingers Canyon . South end of the Great White Wall.

Protection 

Cams 1/4" to 4" ,slings ,stoppers , two 60m ropes.


Photos of The Day of the Litheon. Slideshow Add Photo
Andy starting P1
Andy starting P1
Rapping the ridge
Rapping the ridge
Paul just below belay of first pitch
Paul just below belay of first pitch
Andy following the traverse to the Great White Rid...
Andy following the traverse to the Great White Rid...
Start of P2
Start of P2
A) The Day of the Litheon 5.9 B) The Great White R...
A) The Day of the Litheon 5.9 B) The Great White R...
Andy on P3
Andy on P3
On P5
On P5
Stemming on start of P4
Stemming on start of P4
View from the start of the descent down the ridge.
View from the start of the descent down the ridge.
Back on the ridge P4
Back on the ridge P4
Back to the pack protector
Back to the pack protector

Comments on The Day of the Litheon. Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -