The Dark Side
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This is a nice, often overlooked, route in this area. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb up passing the first bolt to reach a shallow, short, right facing dihedral. Make a few stemming moves and continue up the face and mantle up on to a large stance in the middle of the route. Clip the bolt above the ledge and head straight up the bulge on a few crimps to reach a slot from which to clip the bolt at the lip of the bulge (crux). High step and rock up to gain a stance. The climbing eases up to the finish.
This is the sport route located just to the right of Leave It to Jesus, 5.11c.
7 bolts, shuts.
By S. Neoh
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climbs better than it looks, which was a nice surprise for me. A good route to break into on-sighting at the 11b level.