The Dark Side  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  5,958. Good page?    Administrators:  saxfiend, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

The ridiculous cirque of The Dark Side.

Description 

The Dark Side is a steep, pocketed wall of dark gray sandstone, similar in character to the Motherlode. Boasting the second largest concentration of 5.13 sport routes at the Red, the Dark Side is a great place to find a good project. Additionally, the crag features a number of excellent 5.12s of every grade. The options are limited in the 5.11 & below range, but there are a handful of moderates if warming up on 12a is not your thing.

The routes here are extremely steep, some of the steepest at the Red, climbing a bulging wall at a nearly constant 45 degree angle. Several body-sized huecos provide great rests on some lines, while other lines are more sustained. The cliff faces north, so receives all-day shade, making this a good option on warmer days. Also, the vast majority of the lines here stay dry in the rain.

Getting There 

From KY 11, take Fixer Rd, then take the first left. Follow this windy, paved road for a while, and continue as the road turns to dirt, passing a few houses. These roads are passable when wet. After ~1 mile of dirt, turn right onto another dirt road opposite an oil tank. Stay left, then park at an obvious RRGCC kiosk. Behind the kiosk, locate a trail that crosses the creek. Follow the trail for ~10 minutes, passing signed turn-offs to the Gold Coast & Solar Collector. Switch-back up the steep hill to the cliff, and head right when you first reach the rock. The first route encountered is "Grippy Green", 12a, which begins up a 20-foot-tall, 6"-deep, left-leaning dihedral.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Dark Side

Shanghai 5.12d  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Dark Side

One of the classic routes of the grade, Shanghai ascends an intimidating wave of bullet sandstone. The route begins with an awkward scramble up the unfortunate ramp. Begin a bit left of the bolt line with a long reach (and a long draw) to clip the second bolt. Match the big hold & cut your feet to get established on the wall. Enduro jugs lead to a cool undercling move to a horn, then more jugs to an obvious blank section visible from the ground. A series of big crux moves, with a bigger pu...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of The Dark Side Slideshow

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The Dark Side detail. Routes shown from L -->@S...	The Dark Side from the other side of the cliff. T...	The uninspiring left side of The Dark Side. "Grip...
Side view of most of the Dark Side with a climber ...