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B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon)
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The Dark Side 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Layne Potter. May 29th, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,363
Submitted By: USBRIT on Jun 3, 2008
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Paul starting The Dark Side. photo Layne Potter

Description 

Move up a short ramp to a curving under-cut crack. This route is well protected and nice climbing.
P1)Using the under-cut crack reach a high hold then up to 3 Pro Bolts ,passed these and continue up cracks to the top and double anchors. Nice climbing. Rap the route.


Location 

Starts to the right of Naked Truth in the center of the slab at the top of the Talus below an under- cut crack.


Protection 

One set of stoppers cams from blue tcu to 3" two 60m ropes for rap. Some slings.



Photos of The Dark Side Slideshow Add Photo
Paul nearing top of The Dark Side
Paul nearing top of The Dark Side
What are these guy's doing up there? photo . Layne Potter
What are these guy's doing up there? photo . Layne...
Andy on The Dark Side .. Photo Layne  Potter
Andy on The Dark Side .. Photo Layne Potter
On the route right of The Dark Side... Rebus..5.10
On the route right of The Dark Side... Rebus..5.10
Andy ,Paul and the terriers At the foot of  the Dark Side. photo Layne Potter
Andy ,Paul and the terriers At the foot of the Da...
Steve Rydalch on Dark Side
Steve Rydalch on Dark Side
Comments on The Dark Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hazen Goodyear
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Awesome route! Just be careful what you grab. I belayed 4 people up to me and they all broke off good sized holds.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Oct 23, 2008

Thanks for putting some hard pullers on the climb! This would be I'm sure the second ascent so maybe they have cleaned off most of the loose holds,I thought our party had done that,maybe at times they were a tad off route ? .Anyway glad you liked the climb . You would enjoy Faith Hope and Clarity , On a Wing and a Prayer,Just Dreams and Feeding the Rat . These all have good rock.

By Hazen Goodyear
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I can see in your pic that one difference (in the route that I took) was I when under and then up the the big hollow flake. I put a cam behind the flake. Maybe not such a good idea, but at the time I felt ok with it. It wasn't until I was on-top the flake when I looked down (through the inside of the flake) and realized I could see my #2 cam, head, steam, beaner, and all. But thats climbing right? sometimes you do know what your going to get.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Oct 29, 2008

Hi ..Yes the joys of sandstone,the rock is an adventure in itself.... If you are talking about the flake at the very start of Dark Side I did have a cam in that flake, just hard to see in photo . Certainly better than nothing . We are just back from that area . We put up two more 5.10's one just to the left of Dark Side and one just to the right . Both are very well protected with cams and bolts

By L. Hamilton
Mar 23, 2014

We placed nothing larger than a gold Camalot, but also a small tcu and some stoppers. Steep parts are well protected and fun. Two less-steep sections have easy climbing but loose rock and no protection, so tread lightly on those!

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Mar 24, 2014

We did remove all the loose we could find on the FA and the odd repeat ascents later on. Judging by comments on this climb and other repeats on routes in this area it seems this sandstone rock is "alive" and does continue to decompose.This certainly adds to the great adventure of sandstone climbing.I guess love it or leave it.We loved it.Cheers from the damp UK.