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DescriptionMost southern climbers are familiar with Rumbling Bald, one of the best winter areas around due to its low elevation and south facing aspect. The cliff seems to stretch on for a mile or more when viewed from the tourist meccas of Chimney Rock and Lake Lure. However, the other side of the mountain has just as much rock and is climbable in the summer when the south side is a blast furnace. 99% of routes were done in ground up style. Let's keep it that way please. Getting ThereCurrently there are limited ways to get there. Either know someone who lives in the gated Fairfield golf community at the base of the walls or hike around or over the top from the south side. This situation should change over the coming years as this area will be inside the newly created Hickory Nut Gorge State Park. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dark Side:
Silent Spring 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet The Main Wall
Granite Man 5.10a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Desperado Wall
Lucky Streak 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet The Main Wall
Enter Slabman 5.10- Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Un-named wall - - Right of ...
Black Slabbeth 5.10 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Desperado Wall
Merovingian Line 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Black Bear Buttress
Slabbath Bloody Slabbath 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Desperado Wall
Into The Void 5.10c/d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Desperado Wall
Metal Meltdown 5.11b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Desperado Wall
The Eagle Has Landed 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Eagle Rock
Reckless Criminal 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 175 feet Desperado Wall
Brain Damage 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Desperado Wall
Black Bear Roof 5.11 Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet Black Bear Buttress
Thunderstruck 5.11b/c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Desperado Wall
Ride The Lightning 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Desperado Wall
The Catbird Seat 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet The Cougar Crag
Slabbra Cadabbra 5.11+ Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Desperado Wall
Puff Daddy Sits Out 5.11+ Trad, 3 pitches, 150 feet The Cougar Crag
Hocus Focus 5.12a Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Desperado Wall
Shiloh 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Eagle Rock
Featured Route For The Dark Side
Hocus Focus 5.12a NC : Closed : ... : Desperado Wall
P-1 (5.10+/A0 or 5.12a) Climb past a pin and bolt via large patina type holds to a diagonal line of bolts. There is an A-0 move at the 5th bolt that now goes free and involves some thin terrain and use of a small crystal. Continue up to a short crack that leads to a thin face, passing 2 more bolts to the anchor.P-2 (5.11) Climb straight up to a good slot, which is perfect for a pink tricam. Continue up past 2 more bolts (crux) to easier terrain. Move right a bit, and follow the line of least ...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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