The Dark Side of Oz 5.8
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Amy working her way up the arete.
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Description Very fun route with good exposure up a slightly overhanging arete.
Location Leftmost route on the second tower, on the arete right of the chimney.
Protection 12 bolts & chains.
| Comments on The Dark Side of Oz |
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By Braxtron From: ... Mar 23, 2007 rating: 5.8
| One of the better climbs here, IMO. |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Sep 5, 2007
| is this the one with the crux roughly in the middle and the ledge 12 feet below it? i did one (foolishly) with tiny crimps at the start, then the crux bolt in some overhanging rock with a strategically placed ledge for me to break some bones on should i have fallen while clipping. it was the leftmost climb on the other side of the main wall, where you can see thimble peak and tucson between the valley walls. i was told it was a 5.8+, but if this isn't it i don't see the climb here under munchkinland. |
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ Sep 5, 2007
| This is the obvious arete route past the chimney on the same side as the main wall. It's tall and has 12 bolts. The leftmost route (5.8) on the other side (Wall of Waltzing Witches) isn't named in the guidebook, and I don't think it has been posted here. That sounds like the one you're talking about. |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Sep 6, 2007
| yeah that's probably it. thanks. |
By metrozen May 19, 2008 rating: 5.8- PG13
| Hillary Davis has this as a 7+ on her page (thanks for the great work there, Hillary). I think that rating may be a little shy on the crux moves, but everywhere else this is a great time on forgiving rock. Long for the area and tons of fun. I found a few suspiciously hollow flakes and one softball sized chunk that's probably going to blow out soon. Be careful, my pretties! |
By Cody M From: Tucson, AZ Oct 11, 2010 rating: 5.8-
| This route is a lot of fun with interesting moves all the way up - especially up and over (or around) a small roof/boulder thing near the top that's well protected. Use long draws here in a couple places as the bolts are guarded by sharp edges. |
By Tim Wolfe From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 8, 2013 rating: 5.8
| Probably the best easy route here - lots of fun side pulls and moves for |
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