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The Dark Arts 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dan Durland
Page Views: 1,739
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Jun 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This route takes the prominent line out fixed chain quickdraws on the 45 degree overhang next to the big boulder.

Start by preclipping the first bolt (this is absolutly essential for safety, or you will go flying into and break your back on the boulder at the base of the climb, laying down crashpads is also a good idea). The crux (which gone through numerous evolutions,changing the grade from .13b, to .13d) is right below the first bolt, consisting of some technical dynamic trickery with tiny sharp crimps. This is a V8 dyno to a glued on ear, which seemes to alternate from glued on one year to off another, right now it is glued on. After that its two huge feet cutting dynos out right to a technical dropknee move, then bust the final V6 slopey/crimpy/undercling crux over the lip to the anchors.

NOTE: almost this entire route is manufactured, and I hesitated putting it on here because of all of the flack the route would receive. So please take it as it is, and understand it was put up in an era when "experimental" new routing was accepted.

Very powerful and dynamic, fun moves.

Location 

On the left 45 degree wall above the huge boulder, this route takes fixed chain quickdraws out its right side.

Protection 

Fixed chain quickdraws.


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By Scott Hahn
May 26, 2008
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

Due to the fact that the rest of this route is manufactured, the route has been returned to its previous state, which makes it a lot more fun.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jan 21, 2009
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

The start without the glued feature is??? probably V12 and V8/9 ish with it. I remember when(Ian) had it on his mantle, when it fell off initially :)Brett Green and I dug the route in each state....
By Ian Spencer-Green
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a

Yes, as Jared stated I pulled off the original undercling, which definitely increased the grade to what I felt was 13c/d range. The route is extremely fun for being almost entirely chipped. As Ben put it, you have to take it for what it is, for I in no way whatsoever support chipping. It probably would of been a good 5.14+ if it never was chipped. Also Ben, the first ascent of the Dark Art should be attributed to Dan Durland. As I always understood it the original name was "The Dark Art", not "The Dark Arts". This should be changed on the listing. I don't know about the grade? Didn't the gaston flake you fire to break some?
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Oct 7, 2014
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

At the time that Brett and I were close to sending, it was in the .13c/d or d range. The span needed for the crux dead point is huge and might easily up the grade if the climber is shorter.