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Dangling Chad, The 
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The Dangling Chad 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 388
Submitted By: Duncan P Ryan on Nov 29, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Feeling the pod above the ledge

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Description 

Not exactly sure of route name, but does not appear to be in Bloom. Begins with broken and slightly loose climbing for the first half, up to a rounded ledge. Immediately off the ledge work your way through a pod with only marginal hands (steep, crux) and then jam a clean, right leaning hands crack to the anchors


Location 

First route left of "The Far Left", though some routes exist even farther left on this wall. The approach trail joins the wall at these two climbs where the wall forms a corner.


Protection 

Pair of rings for anchors up top. First half can take several sizes from .5 to #2 and second half takes #1 and #2.



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By Nelson Lunsford
Nov 30, 2009

This is called "The Dangling Chad". We put it up in 2000 and rated it 5.11.