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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Welcome to the Gunks 

The Dangler 

5.10a

   
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Type: Trad, 20 feet
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
FA: Kevin Bein 1978
Submitted By: JSH on Nov 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Description 

This pitch is a variation to Something Interesting or Three Pines. It begins at the GT ledge.

Establish a belay on the right side of the large alcove above Something Interesting. From the obvious left-facing corner, hand traverse out to the hanging arete (hand-sized cams for protection are recommended, however pumpy they may be to place). Pull the lip in an interesting mantle move, and head up to easier ground.

The pitch has been graded everywhere from 5.8+ to 5.10a. Do it and decide for yourself! Or do it without regard to the grade, and enjoy the aesthetic pleasure of just being ... out there.


Location 

Proceed to the base of the Mac Wall; look up. That's "it".


Protection 

Mostly hand-sized cams, to a #3. Double ropes may make the route considerably more pleasant for your second.

A camera, for the belayer, is also a good idea (even better, a third party to take pictures).



Photos of The Dangler Slideshow Add Photo






Lubos negotiating the Dangler.

Lubos negotiating the Dangler.

Aaron getting it done.

Aaron getting it done.

Bill Pierson styling the Gunks' "The Dangler," 5.10a. <br /> <br />Photo by Chris Vultaggio  <br />

Bill Pierson styling the Gunks' "The Dangler," 5.1...

Carter on the Dangler

Carter on the Dangler

Carter preparing for the pullup

Carter preparing for the pullup

Carter after the pullup

Carter after the pullup

JAG having fun on The Dangler.

JAG having fun on The Dangler.

I put the first Dangler pic up here years ago... realized how cliche it was... took it down... and now here I am again... <br /> <br />Three Pines is a nice climb... but this isn't worth doing twice.

I put the first Dangler pic up here years ago... r...

Mark Arrow leading the Dangler

Mark Arrow leading the Dangler

Mark Arrow on the Dangler

Mark Arrow on the Dangler

Ben, Hans and Mark Arrow at the belay for the Dangler.

Ben, Hans and Mark Arrow at the belay for the Dang...

love this climb

love this climb

placing my last piece a bd .75 or green dragon cam

placing my last piece a bd .75 or green dragon cam...

right heel and your out

right heel and your out

Eric J @ the start of the Dangler.

Eric J @ the start of the Dangler.

Eric J (16)... this is why it's called the Dangler

Eric J (16)... this is why it's called the Dangler

Eric on the final heel hook.

Eric on the final heel hook.

A nice finish.

A nice finish.


Comments on The Dangler Add Comment
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By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Feb 6, 2009

worth doing once for a badass photo to show your mother!

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.8+

I whole-heartedly agree. For 10 feet of actual climbing and a photo op that's become a Gunks cliche, I don't think it's entirely worth the approach.

By vanishing spy
Sep 25, 2009

I definitely disagree with the above posts. Something Interesting or Three Pines are great approaches and worth climbing in their own right, regardless of their grade. That ledge is awesome just to hangout on and enjoy the party. The Dangler is a great fun way to finish off those climbs even if you forget your camera.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.10a

Good Gear, Fun moves and a great finish to Something Interesting. Now I need to go back and do it with a little more "style"!

By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jul 22, 2011

Sure, it's short. Sure, the photo is a bit cliche. BUT, i loved it. Was very intimidated standing on the ledge looking out toward the point, but once i sunk that first piece and started moving i thought it was some pretty damn exciting climbing. And yes, i did get the photo to show my mum.

By CaptainMo
Administrator
Jun 26, 2012

we all love the dangler...