The Dali Sit Down Start
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|The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>>|
The notoriety of this boulder problem is quite amazing considering the relative scarcity of information about the area. This line is truly known the world over, and its not uncommon to see an international crowd exchanging beta & spots at the base. The Dali’s fame is not unjustified; the problem has a bit of everything: shoulder pressing, micro crimping, devious footwork, all-out dynos and heel-hooks. None of the moves are extremely difficult by themselves, but they are all hard, and sap just enough juice to make that simple throw at the end a great deal more difficult, and heartbreaking.
Begin sitting down as low as you can, with your right foot on a good 2” horizontal ledge down in the crevice. Both hands are matched on the 2”, vertically-oriented, let-facing sidepull/gaston. Get the left foot on, and press up to the sickle-shaped crimp/pocket, then up to the next left-facing sidepull/gaston that’s ~2’ above the start hold. From here head back left to setup for the big toss to the obvious sloper rail. This is a good place to fall over and over again. If you ever stick this move, match the rail and traverse right along the rail to a relatively easy topout.
Note: There are a multitude of different ways to start the Dali. A quick perusal of 8a.nu indicates at least 5 different versions, all lacking any sort of consensus grade. The version described here is the “low sit down start”.
In the center of the South Face of the Dali Boulder, beginning below the lowest part of the broad sloping rail that sits ~8 feet above the ground. Its also about 3 feet left of the Lama flake system.
Several pads and a spotter.
Andrew on the first move.
|Comments on The Dali Sit Down Start
From: Golden, CO
Jul 29, 2009
rating: V8 7B
I've never been able to come remotely close to climbing a V9 which makes me think the rating is soft. From the people I've talked to, the consensus is a V8.
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 29, 2009
Go to Bishop! You'll be firing "V9's" left & right.
|By dan michels|
From: boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2009
This was my first "V9" and it feels a bit more like a V8 to me although I've only done a few of those. I always give or take a grade depending on style and height, and this was certainly my style, so maybe just a bit easier for me. Also, I have different beta for the crux move. Contact if you are interested in it.
|By Chip Phillips|
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 9, 2009
rating: V8 7B
FA: Bennett Scott
|By Cesar Valencia|
Jun 15, 2013
rating: V8-9 7B+
Love this problem. It felt hard for me, and it's very much my style. The hardest part was the dyno. I could never do it from the start. Anyway, I finally got lucky and sent it. Just take a deep breath before the dyno, and it will go.