The Daily Grind
|1,024 page views|
Making the high step over the roof. This did not f...
Start just right of "Smell the Coffee" and climb up to a small overlap. Make a dicey move up a thin seam to a good ledge. Tend left up to the anchor. From the anchor, an optional second pitch is off the right, then straight up through one 5.8 move and a lot of 5.7. If you do this, rap to the top of Napster, then down.
A nice addition to the cliff.
8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 5 bolts and another 2 bolt anchor on the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Smell the Coffee and The Daily Grind, Plotinus Wal...
BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.
Kenny at the first crux.
Kenny on the continuing hard climbing above the ov...
|Comments on The Daily Grind
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 20, 2003
5.11? Really hard slab moves over the roof. Is there a secret?
|By Ken Leiden|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2003
A very good route. 10b/c felt right to me. Pretty continuous slab climbing between the 5th and 7th bolt. Just gotta trust that nub with your right foot at the crux. Bob, just curious, why did you switch hangers?
|By Ben Mottinger|
Dec 8, 2003
Felt thin for 10b/c, but then again I'm a little out of shape for face climbing.
|By Ray Snead|
Mar 17, 2004
The extension is "Caffeine Buzz," which is in the database.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2004
I thought the route was at least 10c. Maybe I didn't approach it right, but I had a tough time with the moves on the thin face above the overlap.
|By Scott Thompson|
Sep 6, 2004
Definitely 10+ if you go straight up at the mini roof. At 6.4 I can just about reach anything, but pulling that highstep with the seam layback was pretty thin for mid 10.
We thought this and Smell the Coffee were a bit forced (also climbed Snooze Button and thought the same thing). There are definitely some cool features on each route, but linking these features within a suggested rating and trying to climb the route the way the first-ascensionists envisioned felt pretty contrived.
I have a beef with routes where a much easier variation can be had by climbing within a wingspan or so of the intended line. Why put in a 10+ sport climb in 10- territory? Such is the nature of sport climbing, I suppose.
Oops, didn't mean to rant. This was my first sport climbing visit to Boulder Canyon, and ended up feeling a bit cheated. Perhaps we'll pick a different cliff next time.
|By Charlie Fried|
From: New York, NY
Jun 20, 2006
Felt like a 10d. That crux is pretty hard to move past.
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 2, 2006
For a nice warm up (if 5.10 is hard you that is): climb the first 4 bolts of The Daily Grind, then at the small overhang before the route gets thin along that little seam - traverse left up and over the overhang and finish on Smell the Coffee. This I thought was a decent 5.9 climb as you avoid the crux moves of both routes. Even with normal draws I didn't feel much rope drag as the two bolt lines are pretty close. You can call it Grind the Coffee or something...
Nov 13, 2010
Nice 5.10 climbing spoiled by an awkward 5.11 clipping crux. One of those weird big-stand-up-on-one-leg with no hands moves. Then you basically are balancing on one foot, swaying in the breeze, and swinging a draw at the bolt. If this bolt were moved down about a foot (as well as the next one), then you could clip more easily and the climbing would flow better.