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Not So Obscure 
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Smell the Coffee 
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War On Freedom 

The Daily Grind 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,116
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 20, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.
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  • Description 

    Start just right of "Smell the Coffee" and climb up to a small overlap. Make a dicey move up a thin seam to a good ledge. Tend left up to the anchor. From the anchor, an optional second pitch is off the right, then straight up through one 5.8 move and a lot of 5.7. If you do this, rap to the top of Napster, then down.

    A nice addition to the cliff.


    Protection 

    8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 5 bolts and another 2 bolt anchor on the second pitch.



    Photos of The Daily Grind Slideshow Add Photo
    Kenny at the first crux.
    Kenny at the first crux.
    Smell the Coffee and The Daily Grind, Plotinus Wall
    BETA PHOTO: Smell the Coffee and The Daily Grind, Plotinus Wal...
    Making the high step over the roof. This did not feel that hard to me. Stepping onto a big foothold, but right hand is a bit thin. For me, last time when I led it, the next move was the crux. This time, on TR, the move about THAT was the crux, at the tiny overlap. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha
    Making the high step over the roof. This did not f...
    Kenny on the continuing hard climbing above the overlap.
    Kenny on the continuing hard climbing above the ov...
    Comments on The Daily Grind Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 20, 2003

    5.11? Really hard slab moves over the roof. Is there a secret?

    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 20, 2003

    A very good route. 10b/c felt right to me. Pretty continuous slab climbing between the 5th and 7th bolt. Just gotta trust that nub with your right foot at the crux. Bob, just curious, why did you switch hangers?

    By Ben Mottinger
    Founding Father
    Dec 8, 2003

    Felt thin for 10b/c, but then again I'm a little out of shape for face climbing.

    By Ray Snead
    Mar 17, 2004

    The extension is "Caffeine Buzz," which is in the database.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 19, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    I thought the route was at least 10c. Maybe I didn't approach it right, but I had a tough time with the moves on the thin face above the overlap.

    By Scott Thompson
    Sep 6, 2004

    Definitely 10+ if you go straight up at the mini roof. At 6.4 I can just about reach anything, but pulling that highstep with the seam layback was pretty thin for mid 10.

    We thought this and Smell the Coffee were a bit forced (also climbed Snooze Button and thought the same thing). There are definitely some cool features on each route, but linking these features within a suggested rating and trying to climb the route the way the first-ascensionists envisioned felt pretty contrived.

    I have a beef with routes where a much easier variation can be had by climbing within a wingspan or so of the intended line. Why put in a 10+ sport climb in 10- territory? Such is the nature of sport climbing, I suppose.

    Oops, didn't mean to rant. This was my first sport climbing visit to Boulder Canyon, and ended up feeling a bit cheated. Perhaps we'll pick a different cliff next time.

    By Charlie Fried
    From: New York, NY
    Jun 20, 2006
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    Felt like a 10d. That crux is pretty hard to move past.

    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 2, 2006
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    For a nice warm up (if 5.10 is hard you that is): climb the first 4 bolts of The Daily Grind, then at the small overhang before the route gets thin along that little seam - traverse left up and over the overhang and finish on Smell the Coffee. This I thought was a decent 5.9 climb as you avoid the crux moves of both routes. Even with normal draws I didn't feel much rope drag as the two bolt lines are pretty close. You can call it Grind the Coffee or something...

    By slim
    Administrator
    Nov 13, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    Nice 5.10 climbing spoiled by an awkward 5.11 clipping crux. One of those weird big-stand-up-on-one-leg with no hands moves. Then you basically are balancing on one foot, swaying in the breeze, and swinging a draw at the bolt. If this bolt were moved down about a foot (as well as the next one), then you could clip more easily and the climbing would flow better.