The Cutting Edge 5.13b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | Scott Cosgrove, 1989 |
| Season: | Fall to mid spring |
| Submitted By: | Isaac T. on Nov 13, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Joe De Luca attempting the 2nd ascent of The Cutti...
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Description Don't want to give it away in case you are going for the "pure" onsight, but the route is very thin hands, delicate feet, with a few bulges to overcome. It is probably the most intriguing line on the rock, and can be quite fun to watch someone work the moves.
Location The North face of Headstone rock, on the west arete.
Protection 4 bolts to chains (if you are working the problem you can yard off of the solitary rusty bolt to clip the first bolt on the climb. Probably a good idea because if you fall here it is a long way down)
BETA PHOTO: "The Cutting Edge".
Photo by Blitzo.
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| Comments on The Cutting Edge |
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 13, 2007
| Was this at one time called Headmaster's Arete? |
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 27, 2011
| This is an interesting route, and not as steep as I'd expected. Bring your stiff edging shoes for sure. Height definitely helps with both the climbing and at least one clip. Crux comes at the 3/4 mark with some very reachy, balancey moves going from a hueco-jug around the left side to more tiny crimps and ripples on both sides. The bulk of the route felt like very technical 5.12ish climbing on thin edges to a show-stopper 2-3 move crux. The fall between bolts 1 and 2 could be ugly...you won't hit the ground, but you might rag doll into the arete or starting boulder, and at least 2 of the bolts would be pretty exciting to clip due to insecure holds/body positions. Cool position. Take some shoulder length slings if you want to TR, the welded shuts anchor atop Cryptic are a bit back from the edge for this one. |
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