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The Red Rock
Routes Sorted
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Always Leave a Generous Root Tip S 
Baby Teeth S 
Bad Case of Gingervitus  S 
Bloody Impaction S 
Cavity Bones S 
Cuspidnator, The S 
Dry Socket S 
Face Plant T 
Facial Fracture S 
Gum Cheese S 
Latrogenic Pain S 
Liken Z' Planus S 
Shark's Teeth S 
Third Molar Round-Up S 

The Cuspidnator 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: the dentist
Page Views: 1,666
Submitted By: Jake Richens on Sep 30, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Get to the anchors on the left side of this nose (...

Description 

one of the longer routes on the wall, it can share anchors with Latrogenic Pain making the climb a 9

Protection 

bolts to anchor


Photos of The Cuspidnator Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pic of the Cuspidnator. Looked decent from here bu...
BETA PHOTO: Pic of the Cuspidnator. Looked decent from here bu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Grandpa making it look easy
Grandpa making it look easy

Comments on The Cuspidnator Add Comment
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By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not that impressed. The dirtiest of the routes that we did here. Maybe if it cleans up I'll give it a star....
By Rochelle S
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2014

This is a fun and interesting route with the dihedral feature. Well protected, but we use the anchors for the 11a (which no one is ever on) to prevent rope drag. It has clearly cleaned up well since 2005 (as has most of the wall).
By DanielRich
Oct 17, 2015

ya using teh anchors for the 11a is the way to go. did setup a fun TR for my boys 5 and 3. the first part is actually easier for little ones I thought than the easier climbs on the wall
By Jcocke5
Oct 23, 2015

The right top anchor on this route is a spinner, seemed solid but still a bit sketchy. As mentioned above the anchors for the route next door work well, I'd suggest using those instead.
By SColemere
Apr 2, 2016

Anchor still has a spinner, didn't have anything to tighten it with. Led on trad gear. Good placements the whole way, use lots of nuts to fit the changing crack size. It's pretty clean now, few loose pebbles and dirt close to the top.
By Goat
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 17, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This is a fun climb. Belay spot is weird, and the first two bolts are 5.6ish, but then there is a fun chimney that makes you feel like you're climbing OW, with a bit of a roof on top.

Dont be tempted to bail to the right, stick left and climb over the top mini roof to the 11a anchors.. your rope with thank you later.

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