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Chicken Head Ranch
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Bart's Route S 
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Yellow Dot S 

The Crystal Key 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: michalm on Jun 19, 2014

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Great route.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Begin in an overhang on dark and somewhat dirty, but solid, rock. Be secure clipping the second bolt from a jug. A clipping fall would ensure groundfall. Pull out of the overhang and onto a slab up a corner/arete feature. Traverse left just before or at the seam below the roof, clip a few more bolts, and pull the roof from a seam and some underclings on thin but secure feet. Look for the key hold over the lip. Mantle and climb easy slab to the anchors.

It is 5.11 climbing to the roof, V4 boulder problem pulling the roof and manteling, and then easy slab to anchors.

The steep beginning has sporty bolting, and the easy slab seems over-bolted.

The rock in the overhangs is still a little dirty but is cleaning up.

The rock at the top and at the lip is sharp and grippy, which is good for traction but bad if you lower instead of rap. This rock will chew up your rope. Toproping is not recommended unless you are creative at eliminating rope drag.


The Crystal Key is a couple routes to the right of Yellow Dot; begin in an overhang on dark, dirty-looking rock. See the guidebook for the exact location.


15 bolts to welded coldshut anchors.

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By slim
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a nice, long pitch with really good climbing. The crux is pretty tough if you aren't proficient at manteling.

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