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 ADVANCED
Biceps Wall
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Beginner Flake T,TR 
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The Crux 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 640
Submitted By: Frank T on Aug 6, 2008

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Description 

Also known as Beginner Corner, climb up the sloping ledges following a thin crack past the small, blocky right-facing comer to easier ground above. Not always the cleanest or most graceful route to play on. You may find it to be a bit wet after a good rain too.

This is a good climb for the new trad climber, with one issue, a fall on the first half could cause you to hit/land on the ledges.

Watched a two person team swap leads the whole way up this recently. they turned this from a simple single pitch to a whopping 4 pitches (they were working on building belay stations and swapping out leads). Thought this was a good idea and this is the climb to try it on.

Location 

Starting 12 feet right of Beginner Flake.

Protection 

Good Pro - Small to Med. gear. I tend to use nuts & small cams (C3's) lower down and C4's up to a #3 higher up. It is possible to place a #4 too. That is if you are dieing to use it and feel like lugging it up.
It's possible to sew this route up if you feel like it.


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