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{10} Mordor
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The Crumbling 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Season: Seeps a bit during extremely wet periods
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: Eric Schnepel on May 12, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Full The Crumbling route to the upper anchor.


Hard from the start, this line commonly has a few cheater stones stacked up to allow the shorter folks to reach the starting pinch and sidepull. Getting to the first bolt feels like an easy V4 boulder problem leading to a giant flake-jug. From here it is just a matter of holding it together through the next 7 bolts of fun and straightforward climbing on positive edges and sidepulls. The final bulge offers one more brief challenge before the anchors can be clipped from a great jug. There is a large ledge slightly off route to the right towards the top. If you traverse over and get a full recovery before pulling the final bulge, the route goes at more like 11d from what I've heard. However, the moves are very doable without this rest and make for a full value 12a.
Recently a 40' extension has been added to the arete above the anchors, taking the line to the top, and while no move on the extension is all that hard, fighting the pump can be quite difficult, and makes for an excellent and solid 12a. 95' to the 2nd anchors.


This route starts on the lava looking rock in the cave and ascends a fairly steep face through a bulge.


9 bolts to the first anchor, 3 more if continuing to the top, plus draws for the anchors (incase the sport clip anchors are missing). Stick Clip is basically mandatory.
Route has been rebolted with solid SS bolts.

Photos of The Crumbling Slideshow Add Photo
The Crumbling
The Crumbling
Kevbone on the crumbling.  2005
Kevbone on the crumbling. 2005
The reason why the bolts were so wiggly and loose ...
The reason why the bolts were so wiggly and loose ...

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By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Half of the bolts on this rig are bad. The last is backed out almost 1/2" (hole also drilled improperly at an off-angle) and others are loosening and at least one stud is wiggly loose in the hole. The bottom biner on the yellow "fixed" draw is heavily worn.
By another Chad
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The stud that was coming out has been replaced.

By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 15, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

fixed draw was gone as of 1/15/15.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 5, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

An extension has been added to The Crumbling, as of 3/2/15.
The route now continues up the arÍte above the anchors to an upper anchor via 3 bolts. There are a couple of good rests in the extension, so the grade has not changed, though you may find the insecure moves of the finish quite hard after doing The Crumbling.
Get on it! 95' tall, 60m rope will reach the ground from the upper anchor.
Route was first TR'd by Jason and Kevin, but never bolted. Extension bolted and the FFA done by myself and Charlie Egan.
By Topher Dabrowski
Mar 20, 2015

The reason why the bolts were so wiggly and loose is because they were lag bolts. These were pulled and replaced March 2015 and included the anchor station at the top of the Meth Rage route. Congrats to those who climbed it and scathed past a potential ground fall should one of these had failed.
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