Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
{10} Mordor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angle of the Dangle T,S 
Crumbling, The S 
Dark Lord S 
Getting Your Kicks S 
Grace S 
Hellboy S 
Humbling, The S 
Meth Rage T 
Mrs. Norris S 
Route 66 S 
Slack Face S 
Step Child S 
Tofutti Cutie S 

The Crumbling 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Season: Seeps a bit during extremely wet periods
Page Views: 1,622
Submitted By: Eric Schnepel on May 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The reason why the bolts were so wiggly and loose ...


Hard from the start, this line commonly has a few cheater stones stacked up to allow the shorter folks to reach the starting pinch and sidepull. Getting to the first bolt feels like an easy V4 boulder problem leading to a giant flake-jug. From here it is just a matter of holding it together through the next 7 bolts of fun and straightforward climbing on positive edges and sidepulls. The final bulge offers one more brief challenge before the anchors can be clipped from a great jug. There is a large ledge slightly off route to the right towards the top. If you traverse over and get a full recovery before pulling the final bulge, the route goes at more like 11d from what I've heard. However, the moves are very doable without this rest and make for a full value 12a.
Recently a 40' extension has been added to the arete above the anchors, taking the line to the top, and while no move on the extension is all that hard, fighting the pump can be quite difficult. 95' to the 2nd anchors.


This route starts on the lava looking rock in the cave and ascends a fairly steep face through a bulge.


9 bolts to the first anchor, 3 more if continuing to the top, plus draws for the anchors (incase the sport clip anchors are missing). Stick Clip is basically mandatory.
Route has been rebolted with solid SS bolts.

Photos of The Crumbling Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevbone on the crumbling.  2005
Kevbone on the crumbling. 2005
Rock Climbing Photo: Full The Crumbling route to the upper anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Full The Crumbling route to the upper anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crumbling
The Crumbling

Comments on The Crumbling Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Shainman
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Half of the bolts on this rig are bad. The last is backed out almost 1/2" (hole also drilled improperly at an off-angle) and others are loosening and at least one stud is wiggly loose in the hole. The bottom biner on the yellow "fixed" draw is heavily worn.
By another Chad
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The stud that was coming out has been replaced.

By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 15, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

fixed draw was gone as of 1/15/15.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Mar 5, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

An extension has been added to The Crumbling, as of 3/2/15.
The route now continues up the arĂȘte above the anchors to an upper anchor via 3 bolts. There are a couple of good rests in the extension, so the grade has not changed, though you may find the insecure moves of the finish quite hard after doing The Crumbling.
Get on it! 95' tall, 60m rope will reach the ground from the upper anchor.
Route was first TR'd by Jason and Kevin, but never bolted. Extension bolted and the FFA done by myself and Charlie Egan.
By Topher Dabrowski
Mar 20, 2015

The reason why the bolts were so wiggly and loose is because they were lag bolts. These were pulled and replaced March 2015 and included the anchor station at the top of the Meth Rage route. Congrats to those who climbed it and scathed past a potential ground fall should one of these had failed.
By Charlie Egan
May 9, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Why is the ledge to the right considered off route? I believe I could have reached the last clip from my rest stance, which is more than enough to qualify as being on route in my mind. I agree that a good shake before the final moves brings the grade down a few notches, but so be it.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!