|Type:||Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]|
|FA:||Todd Goss & H. Christenson, 1997|
|Submitted By:||AJ Dexter on Jul 20, 2008|
|Comments on The Crucible||Add Comment|
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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jun 29, 2009
Was hoping for a bit more description. I didn't find this route particularly sharp and there was only one mono that I didn't have to use. I didn't do it, though, as I couldn't figure out the move past the break (at least in a combo that would let me finish the route). Did the "crux" above (according to a local) and went to the top. There is a rock scar where I was shut down. Wondering if something is missing because even something tiny at the scar would make it significantly easier.
To be more specific, moving off a jug pocket, just above the break, to a small but positive crimp that you make the next clip off of. The span is about 6'. There is a small 2-finger for your right (shallow and sloping) or a tiny crimp way up left (lichen on it so that probably isn't it) and a rock scar right in the middle. You can skip this move by heading out to the arete but I figured that was cheating, for sure.
Jul 17, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
The 2 good finger pocket out right is a sucker hold. And Yes going out to the right arete is cheating.
This section is the real crux of the route.
Without giving the fun totally away.
Stay left use underclings to gain a super sharp crimper. This sets you up for a very technical cross to gain a good crimp and mono.
I'm not sure what "local" you talked to but they didn't know what they were talking about.