The Crossing
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 10 pitches |
FA: | Numerous, FFA Marc Bourdon, Jay Audenart, 2001 |
Page Views: | 2,465 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Drewsky on Aug 5, 2015 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This route is a stellar way to climb a ton of hard friction slab without frazzling your nerves with mind-frying runouts. It's not always a sport climb and there are certainly places where a fall would be undesirable, but it's better protected than many of the other Apron slabs: no three bolt .10c pitches here. Most of the pitches are 5.11 and your feet and toes will remember the continuous nature of the climbing for at least a few days afterwards. The .12d is completely optional as it's a short, steep boulder problem you can easily pull through.
P1 (.11b): Right off the bat, 'warm up' on a very thin mossy slab that climbs out of the forest above a downed tree. You can start from under/behind the tree but the slab is pretty dirty lower down. I started from a ledge a little higher. As the select book states, it is a rather cruel warmup.
P2 (.10b): Much easier and shorter slab. Belay amongst trees on the ledge.
P3 (.10d): Climb the well-protected slab directly above. 50m long, this pitch feels harder than some of the later .11a pitches. Very sustained. Ends just below Snake.
P4 (.11a): Cross Snake and angle right. Slightly thinner at one point but much shorter than the previous pitch.
P5 (.11d): The business. Move right, then up until you encounter a steepening, thin section. Turn on the magic footwork switch, weld your feet to some miniscule features and hope for the best. Doesn't ease up much until you're clipping the anchor.
P6 (.11a): The guide says .11b; feels more like .10c-.11a at most, maybe because it's much, much easier than the previous pitch.
P7 (.11a): Feet hurting yet? Another thin, low-angle slab leads up to a belay below a steeper section of slab.
P8 (.11b or c?): The guide bills this as another non-descript .11a but I found it to be a major 'sting in the tail'. A bleak bulge of 5.11 glacier glass in the middle of the pitch with a little too much sun on it felt much, much harder than all but the crux slab pitch. Perhaps this is instead the '.11b with a bulge' described as P6 or perhaps my feet were just tired by this point.
P9 (.12d or .9 A0): Glassy and beautiful glacier polish leads to the short, steep headwall. Checking out the moves briefly seemed to put the section at about V6 or so. Bolts are right in your face, so go for it! Dirt on the slab above made the subsequent easier climbing a bit scarier.
P10 (.10a): I think I may have combined this with P9 but I can't recall. In any case, the climbing remains easier but becomes more and more dirty. If I'd had a brush, 10 minutes would have been enough to create an improved path through the thickening murk.
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