Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Round Pond
Select Route:
3 Guppies in a Plastic Bag 
A Swift Kick to the Head 
Arch Nemesis 
Baby's Cry, The 
Ball and Chain 
Becoming, The 
Brain Supreme 
Brett's Problem 
Bring the Ruckus 
Call & Response 
Cause for Commotion 
Cosmic Cam 
Creatine Buffer, The 
Crimp Problem 
Crimp Problem SDS, The 
Cut Up 
Debbie Does 
DJ Dan 
Double Deuce 
Elephant Back 
Gator Pussy 
Gimme Crack 
Golden Arches 
High Tech Issues 
Hueco Problem, The 
Iced Tea 
Ill Saint 
Jelly Belly 
Jitterbug (aka Try Again), The 
John's Problem 
Just Stand Up 
Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete) 
Lip Sync 
Midget Porn 
My Brothers Wife 
Oblivious to Danger 
Oyster's Ridge 
Rock On 
Wet Spot, The 
Whip, The 
Wreck Em 

The Crimp Problem SDS 

Hueco: V5- Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5- Font: 6C [details]
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Nov 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This is the sit start to the popular Crimp Problem. Start sitting with left hand on a positive crimp and right on an under-cling. Get you body position right and pull up to the small smile shaped crimp that marks the start of The Crimp Problem (V3). Then finish up that problem.


Just Left of Maxim in the Jelly Rock Area. Start sitting directly below The Crimp Problem on a crimp and under-cling.


PAd and spotter.

Comments on The Crimp Problem SDS Add Comment
Show which comments
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 7, 2013

Just another example of Pway grades being all over the place. I don't see this single move adding two grades of difficulty to the original problem once you suss out the feet. Didn't even feel significantly harder at all, though it is a major improvement over the stand start.
By BDalhaus
From: Manchester, NH
Aug 27, 2013

Adjusted the grade... Now it's in line with reality.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 27, 2013

I don't mean to be argumentative, and although I do agree this route never comes to the v6 range. The consensus seems to be it is in the v5 range from the grades suggested by people of this site. Maybe we should make the listing grade more in line with the consensus of the masses?

Since I'm the original poster, I am going to change my suggested grade to v5-, because thats what I feel it is. I originally put v5-6 as the grade because that is what it has been listed as in other places.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 10, 2013
rating: V5- 6C

Footage starts at 1:12.

By Ian McAfee
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 22, 2014
rating: V6 7A

Food for thought: Maybe the Kemple guide had different starting handholds than the current problem, the right hand undercling thingy used now looks like it may have broken and creaks quite a bit. Maybe someone else can chime in because if the move to the stand start were nontrivial I could see it getting the guidebook grade. Either way this face is a weird one for the grade discussion.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2014
rating: V5- 6C

I think the starting move of the sit is around V5, but it's much MUCH more repeatable than the dyno. It's a hard pull off the ground, but it feels a lot more like a sure-thing than the dyno/stab to the gaston or lip.

When I could finally do V5's with some consistency all I had to do was play with the feet and the start came easily. Then it was just a matter of sticking the dyno after the sit. All in all, I can probably do the sit moves 4 out of 5 times, and the dyno/gaston about 1 in 10...

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!