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 ADVANCED
Upper Gibraltar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Route Runs Through It S 
Crescent Direct, The T 
Crescent, The T 
Dazed and Confused S 
Gibbon, The S 
Slacker T 
Soul, The S 
Triple Overhang T 

The Crescent Direct 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Roland & Amos Clifford (early 1970s)
Page Views: 587
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 13, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: the Crescent Direct, Upper Gibraltar

Description 

Climb the obvious thin crack (5.8+, the crux of the route) that is just to the right of the starting bolts on A Route Runs Through It. It is possible to place nuts and TCUs or to reach left and to clip bolts. When you reach the break, climb the left-leaning crack through the bulge. Once on the ledge atop the overhanging section, move 8 feet left and then follow the steep, crescent-shaped crack up and then right. From the top of the crack head straight up clipping the last two bolts of A Route Runs Through It.

Location 

Immediately right of the start of A Route Runs Through It.

Protection 

Gear from tiny to 3", bolts.


Photos of The Crescent Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Nicole works through the crux of Crescent Direct a...
Nicole works through the crux of Crescent Direct a...
Kathleen high on Crescent Direct, at Upper Gibralt...
Kathleen high on Crescent Direct, at Upper Gibralt...

Comments on The Crescent Direct Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 13, 2010

This is a much more natural and enjoyable line than the original line for The Crescent. This is also one of the most sustained and interesting moderate routes in all of Santa Barbara.