Located in the newer western valley at Devil's Head The Crag Ranch offers almost 30 new routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12+. Both sport and trad climbs are found here, with about 2/3 of the routes being sport lines. There are some multi pitch sport lines and some very long routes, up to 30 bolts long. Routes face north south and west, so it's easy to stay cool on hot days and find sun on colder days. Most of the routes contain the high quality fine grained Devil's Head granite. Some of the north facing routes still have a bit of lichen.
To get to The Crag Ranch hike to the firetower, but instead of going up the stairs go south through the grassy valley below the firetower. Enter the forest on the right side of the valley and look for a cairned trail leading down through the trees. The trail forks in about 50 yards leading right to Digital Tower and left to The Crag Ranch. To get to The Crag Ranch trend left as you descend for about 250 yards. Watch for one spot where the trail goes back uphill slightly to the left around a large boulder. The trail ends at the base of a large (250') west facing formation, The Crag Ranch. Also look for the alcove with a north facing wall with 15 sport and trad routes.
Browse More Classics in The Crag Ranch
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Crag Ranch:
Fenceline 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
High Plains Poser 5.10c Sport, 2 pitches, 190 feet
North 40 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Life On The Ranch 5.10d Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Quickdraw Rustler 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Consolation Prize 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Meanwhile 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Featured Route For The Crag Ranch
Meanwhile 5.12c CO : South Platte : ... : The Crag Ranch
This route is located at the edge of the west and south faces of The Crag Ranch where the south face reaches its lowest point. This route is LONG so TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE BEFORE YOU START. It is possible to do the whole thing in one continuous pitch from the ground, but you'll need a bucketload of draws. The part up to the first set of anchors, call it the first pitch if you like, is ten bolts and about 5.11c following granite tufas and laybacks. The next section is the business,...[more] Browse More Classics in CO