The Crack's On Top
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 36 votes
Routes in The Dark Side
27 Tons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Acetylcholine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Animatronic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Asym S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Audition, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Beginner's Outing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black 'N Dicey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Black Awareness S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Black Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Blank Frank S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Bonnie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Call From Overseas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Captain Caveman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Clyde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Corner Pockets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Counter Balance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Crack Happens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Crack's On Top, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Dark Side Roofs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Edge Of Fright S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
El Guapo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Enchanted Porkfist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Everybody Was Here S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Face The Music S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Fat Like Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Fight or Flight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Fragile S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Go East, Old Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Gully Boys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
I Scare Myself T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Karen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Kashmere S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b | |
Kinesthesia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Levels of the Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Line of Strength S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R | |
Lumina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Man in Black S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Mannequin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Missing Hangers aka Hangers Regained S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Muted by Reality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Papillion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Plum, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Porkus Procurement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Puddle Of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R | |
Punjabi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Red Devil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Redlined S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Rip It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Route Fluffer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Shelf Road Virgin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Show Me Your Bolts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Slap Me S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Stink Finger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Stuck in the Middle With You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Suspender Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Swinging Richards S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Teenage Wristband S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Thank Heaven for Little Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Trolling For Holds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Two Hearts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
U Pump It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Unknown But Worth Doing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Viaggro S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Void Lloyd S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Warm Busch Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Way We Were, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Welcoming, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Whisper To A Scream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Type: | Sport |
FA: | Brian Mullin |
Page Views: | 1,774 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | montay on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a better route than Enchanted Porkfist (IMHO) and no where near as much traffic. That being said, I must also say that Enchanted Porkfist is a superb route as well.
To find this route, hike into the Dark Side Canyon, and make your way to the Question of Balance Pinnacle. Just to the right of the Pinnacle lies a pair of routes on beautiful, black rock. The left route of these is TCOT.
Gingerly creep your way up the face on thin technical holds. It is fairly sustained. At the top, you will run into a crack that is a bit awkward. You might find this kind of hairy if you don't bring a small cam or two. The last 15 feet (for me anyway) was a bit harder than it looked. Have fun!!
To find this route, hike into the Dark Side Canyon, and make your way to the Question of Balance Pinnacle. Just to the right of the Pinnacle lies a pair of routes on beautiful, black rock. The left route of these is TCOT.
Gingerly creep your way up the face on thin technical holds. It is fairly sustained. At the top, you will run into a crack that is a bit awkward. You might find this kind of hairy if you don't bring a small cam or two. The last 15 feet (for me anyway) was a bit harder than it looked. Have fun!!
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