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Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bolts T,TR 
Blown Out T 
Chummin' for Splatter S 
Clean Sweep T,TR 
Crack, The T 
From the Ashes S 
I Love L.A. S 
Magic Feather S 
Moon Doggies T 
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 
Sob Story T 
Teetering TR 

The Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Yvon Chouinard, early 1970s
Page Views: 1,326
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Erica nears the top of the Crack at Foothill Crag,...


A few tricky moves come right off the deck. Ask for a careful spot from your belayer. Then, an easy wide crack with good pro leads to a ledge with a bush.

Place gear high as leaving this ledge and the bush is the crux of the route (perhaps 5.7). Look for face holds on either side of the crack.

Steep crack and face climbing (5.4) with good pro take you to the top of the route. Look for the fixed anchor immediately atop the crack on the left. Be very suspicious of the two older bolts in the summit boulder.


Gear from small (#1 TCU) to 3.5". You might want to double up on medium-sized gear (1/2"-1"). The crux is protected by a solid 2" cam. New fixed anchors atop the crack: two 1/2" Rawl-style five piece expansion bolts (2006).

Photos of The Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wesley Fienup (at 4 years old in this picture) cli...
Wesley Fienup (at 4 years old in this picture) cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Left to right: Ruthless Poodles, The Crack, Clean ...
BETA PHOTO: Left to right: Ruthless Poodles, The Crack, Clean ...

Comments on The Crack Add Comment
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By Mark Fletcher
Jan 12, 2014

The bush mentioned above is gone. I suggest bringing cams and nuts from less than 1/2" to 4.5". An outstanding climb that protects well, except for the very beginning. There are some mandatory hand jams, but otherwise look for hand holds to the right and left to complement the crack. Very fun!
By Steven Wolpe
From: Ojai, CA
Jul 6, 2015

Left anchor bolt is starting to wiggle a little.

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