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Crackhouse
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Birth Canal, The T 
Crack Whore, The T 
Crackhouse, The T 

The Crack Whore 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tait Rees
Page Views: 2,944
Submitted By: Shanti on Apr 17, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Yeah, come do me!

Description 

The Crack Whore is a 25-30 foot off-width roof bouldering problem. Start as far back in the cave as possible and climb out to the lip. A variation "The Crack Head" (11+) is to climb through the squeeze chimmney in the middle avoiding the crux (turning the lip).


Location 

Take 191 North from Moab. Turn left on highway 313. Drive approximately 10 miles and turn left onto the Gemini Bridges road.
Follow the signs to Gemini Bridges. The Crack Whore is approximately 5.8 miles from the Gemini Bridges road turn-off about a mile before the Crack House.

From the turn-off onto Gemini Bridges Road:
After 4 miles go right at the Gemini Bridges Sign
After 4.7 miles stay left at "Y" following the Gemini Bridges sign
After 5.6 Miles stay left at the "Y"
After 5.8 Miles stay left
Park anywhere you can off the road
There will be a large drainage on the right side
Hike down the drainage to the Rim
The Crack Whore is the on the right


Protection 

At least two bouldering pads and a good spotter or two.



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By OW Poser
Jun 7, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The Crack Whore is always ready for a good time !

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I had to dry-hump that 3 times over about 8 years to finally surmount!
She was fully worth it.

By Shanti
Apr 1, 2010

The new and improved Crack House.