To find this route, read the directions given in the route titled "Pinhead". From Pinhead, hike approximately 100 yards to the north and locate a HUGE roof about 60 feet off the deck. To the left of this lies the gorgeous lines of "The Gym Arete" (please see Richard Wright's entry for this route) and "The Crack of Dawn". The Crack of Dawn is probably the most striking crack line I have seen at Shelf. We are talking BEAUTIFUL!!
The Van Horn book gives this line 10b. The old select 200 book gives a rating of 11b, which is a bit far fetched. Purists might have a kiniption about seeing a crack like this bolted. However, I am going to stick to the facts on this one (please join me in leaving this subject untouched as it could easily explode into terrabytes of discussion).
The facts are as follows:
Start up on funky, hollowed, pockety rock to a high first clip (red home made hanger). Get ready to crank. Jam from fingers to hands and maybe even a fist or two, and heck, even throw in a lieback or two just for kicks. Follow this recipe for about 4 bolts. Stir in a little finger crack/ face edging for about 3 bolts to the anchors. A very tasty route.
This could probably be a good trad lead for a sport climber who is learning to place gear. No brainer bomber gear and bolts for backup.
Bob and Carrie Robertson are responsible for this route. There only reason I know this is the homemade hangers on the route. That is their trademark and every route with these hangers on them should be attributed to Bob and Carrie.
AC - I think you need to do a little homework here before you start suggesting that every route with home made (I prefer to call them "Homer-Made") was put up by Bob & Carrie. Home made hangers were used by nearly every new route activist at Shelf Road in the 80s. In fact, they were commonly used at many climbing around the country. That's the way it was back then! Cold shuts were also commonly used as bolt hangers. Frankly, the high quality gear that we see on many of "today's routes" simply wasn't so readily available 10-15 years ago. While you may be right that Bob did this one, a great number of other routes equipped with these were done by others.
Why don't you take a moment to actually log on with your real name - no need to be a faceless corward.
This route was done by Richard Asher and myself on natural pro. Carrie and I went back, recleaned the crack, and bolted it. We then went back a second time and changed the hangers. We think it's one of the best 10s we have done at Shelf.
I also think this route is one of the finest lines at Shelf and fact that it's bolted doesn't detract from this. In fact if I had to use natural gear, I'd probably put in a lot more pieces than the number of bolts. There's a spot where the crack goes a little wide and the last bolt is well below your feet, not to mention the chossy opening section where a broken hold could send you on a 15-20' digger. So it's not exactly overbolted.
This route could go on gear, but I wouldn't want to take a whip on it. The rock is a bit chossy as is most of Shelf. Great line though and a perfect spot to get warmed up for the stout classics that surround it. Great for the grade 5.10 for sure. Super fun!!!!!!!!!
This climb is incredible. Perfect lieback movement if you choose not to jam. Excellent thoughtful crux as well. Some holds were loose.... I would absolutely not trust gear in this rock. Thank you to whoever bolted this and made it accessible to everyone!
By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Oct 20, 2013
Didn't feel very 10b with the numerous juggy rests but overall a fantastic line! I think its length may contribute to its rating. In any case, amazing. Highly recommended. :)