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The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,665
Submitted By: Ben F on Nov 22, 2001
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James from canada, May '08

Description 

This is the climb to the left of Drain Pipe in the same alcove. It is a bit longer, but we were able to do it with a 60 m rope with no problem. We finished this climb on Thanksgiving Day just as the weather turned to hell.

Starting this climb was a grunt for me and I felt insecure. However, my taller second was able to move through this section more securely. As mentioned above, the start is wide and awkward. Once this section is surmounted, the climbing is more straightforward. This crack undulated a bit more than most IC crack and allowed for more size variety. We felt this climb was for sure a solid 10 and maybe 10+. Though most climbs that eat 1.5 Friends/.75 Camalots at the Creek tend to be harder, the presence of pods and some sections being slightly less than vertical kept it from being an 11. Save a 3 Friend/2 Camalot or 2 for the top, which is probably the only place they'll fit anyway.


Protection 

I placed a large cam (#4 Camalot, I believe) at the start. I used an arsenal of 1.5 Friends and .75 Camalots on this pitch. In addition to these pieces bring one or 2 of each size from a 1 to a 3.5 Friend.



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By Darin Lang
Feb 15, 2002

Love the route name, Ben. Nice description. I agree that the initial moves are awkward and a bit insecure - a #4 Camalot will definitely increase your peace of mind for these moves. After flailing on my first attempt, I found that if you can scratch your feet up high enough (awkward), a solid fist jam can be found past the little OW bulge, which will help you move up into the meat of the climb a little more elegantly. It could be height-dependent, but I'm only 5'9" and was able to reach it. OTOH, the upper section that is more "straightforward" completely humbled me.

By GringoD
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 2, 2007

I did this climb a couple of days ago. The lower wide start stymied me until I turned from having my right side in to having my left side in. I was able to paste my right foot on the ledge that you can't see from above. Combined w/ a little left arm-barring and I was on my way. The rest of the climb wore me out. Particularly my left foot. It was extremely strenuous. I hung-dog like a mofo. I'd like to go back when I've got more energy and give it a redpoint attempt. I'd call it 5.10+.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 28, 2012

I'm also 5'9", the start is awkward and comes down to arm and knee bars sometimes. A #4 fits to protect the start, a #6 doesn't fit ;)

A really fun route, but a humbling lead I thought. I didn't finish it on lead, but after a few days to recover my ego, I really want to go back and try it again!