The Courthouse Rock Climbing
great rock. great location. worth the hike!
The Courthouse is a small east-facing crag sitting on the shoulder of the 4th Brother in the heart of the Johns Brook Valley region of the High Peaks. Though only 70 feet in height, this little cliff, has clean, moonlike rock, a nice selection of moderate routes, and an unrivalled view of the Great Range.
This is the crux of the whole day. From the Garden Trailhead in Keene Valley, take the Phelps Trail toward Johns Brook Lodge (JBL). After passing 2 lean-tos and crossing two brooks (Bear Brook and Deer Brook), hike for another 5 minutes or so. At the next stream crossing, look for a faint climbers' path that leads off the trail on the right and up the hill. A good landmark is the VERY LARGE boulder that sits very close to the Phelps Trail on the left. If you're standing at this boulder, you've gone too far! Once on the climbers' path follow many cairns (spaced out and not so obvious all the time) up the hill and slightly to the right. As an employee of the mountaineer told me: "You'll know you're on course, if you are bushwhacking uphill through knee-high nettles."--Good advice. The bushwhack eventually ends at a wet, mossy, slab. Go up and around to the right, ultimately getting yourself on top of this feature, then pick up the faint trail again. From here, the cliff will soon become obvious on your right after about 5 more minutes of uphill hiking. The trudge is definitely worth the effort!
Climbing Season For the High Peaks Region area.
Weather station 8.9 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Courthouse
Opening Statement 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b NY
: ... : The Courthouse
A wonderful face climb littered with fun pock-marked, and plated rock. A bit like climbing at the Red. Start about 20 feet to the right of the obvious left-facing arch in the center of the cliff. Take the plumb line up the center of the face passing a piton at about 15 feet, or so. Continue up the featured rock past 2 more pitons and a slabby topout. There are two solid spruce trees up and slightly left that works well for an anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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