The Coug  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Ed McEwan New Route:  Yes Season:  Autumn, winter, spring Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Nov 23, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>> Boulder Falls is open to tourists but the slope and approach to Lower Dream Canyon remains closed until further notice. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a long pitch (full 30 meters; 60-meter rope **mandatory** -- and tie a knot in the end) right of Vishnu, on the upper south face of Krishna Spire, next to Berlin Wall. Belay from the top of the gully between the two walls.

Scramble about 30 feet to a ledge below a small grey face. Clip two bolts here, step right, chase two bolts up the right side of a nice arete, then join the crack Krishna Orange for 20 feet (thin-fingers and hand-sized gear here; I used a Metolius #1 TCU and a gold Camalot, and believe you me, you do want the gear or it will be a huuuuge runout). Alternately, you could just start up on the big ledge, on Krishna Orange, and link into the last 5 bolts on The Coug; bring gear for the lower crack if you do so.

Step left again onto a small perch, and then climb five bolts up the obtuse, gently overhanging corner above, making long reaches to good holds. Finish on a clean slab with a great, commanding position and first-class views of Lower Dream Canyon. Congrats: you've now Slain the Coug.

Location 

20 feet right of Vishnu but with a lower start from the top of the gully.

Protection 

9 bolts plus finger and hand-sized gear, to double-bolt anchors. 60-meter rope mandatory.