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Krishna & Serenity Spire
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Vishnu 

The Coug 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Ed McEwan
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn, winter, spring
Page Views: 303
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 23, 2008
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  • Description 

    This is a long pitch (full 30 meters; 60-meter rope **mandatory** -- and tie a knot in the end) right of Vishnu, on the upper south face of Krishna Spire, next to Berlin Wall. Belay from the top of the gully between the two walls.

    Scramble about 30 feet to a ledge below a small grey face. Clip two bolts here, step right, chase two bolts up the right side of a nice arete, then join the crack Krishna Orange for 20 feet (thin-fingers and hand-sized gear here; I used a Metolius #1 TCU and a gold Camalot, and believe you me, you do want the gear or it will be a huuuuge runout). Alternately, you could just start up on the big ledge, on Krishna Orange, and link into the last 5 bolts on The Coug; bring gear for the lower crack if you do so.

    Step left again onto a small perch, and then climb five bolts up the obtuse, gently overhanging corner above, making long reaches to good holds. Finish on a clean slab with a great, commanding position and first-class views of Lower Dream Canyon. Congrats: you've now Slain the Coug.


    Location 

    20 feet right of Vishnu but with a lower start from the top of the gully.


    Protection 

    9 bolts plus finger and hand-sized gear, to double-bolt anchors. 60-meter rope mandatory.



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