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Rappel Rock
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Unsorted Routes:

The Corner 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,014
Submitted By: Joe Lee on Jul 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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39yr old bolts

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb an easy slab with discontinuous cracks up and then right to reach the left facing open dihedral capped by a roof. The start of the dihedral is the business. After the roof, move upwards to hit the roof crack and then traverse left. The original route continues upward still but we escaped further left to get on Pine Tree Ledge.

    Addendum: you can also start on the slab directly below the corner. There is no protection but the climbing is pretty secure. Bout 5.7/5.8ish I think.

    Location 

    As you hike down the east side of Rappel Rock, near the toe, you'll see a right facing corner that transitions into a wide crack. To the right of the wide crack, you can see a pretty left facing open corner. Start by a small tree at the base. You want to approach the corner from the left.

    Protection 

    Bring your standard rack. There are two old bolts. Don't worry. Since the leader mustn't fall.

    !!! Protect your second on the traverse. And if you decide to traverse further to Pine Tree Ledge, you won't be able to protect the moves down and left for the second. A fall for the second will be bad. But the climbing isn't that hard. Just make sure the second has a cool head.


    Photos of The Corner Slideshow Add Photo
    From here, we moved down and left to Pine Tree Ledge.  Christian on the sharp end.
    From here, we moved down and left to Pine Tree Led...
    I know it's a blurry photo.  But it's also a great move.
    I know it's a blurry photo. But it's also a great...
    upper part of the corner
    upper part of the corner
    1/4" ers
    1/4" ers

    Comments on The Corner Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By JFox
    From: Flagstaff
    Oct 3, 2010

    Nice route. Someone replaced the two, old button heads with newer bolts. Too bad. It used to be more fun, and there is gear to be had, though it takes some fiddling.
    By Jimbo
    Oct 4, 2010

    Just curious how is a route more fun if you need to clip to very old button heads as opposed to nice new bolts? When the FA party put in the button heads they were bomber. 30 years later not so much. Seems like the route is now back to it's original condition.
    Skip the new ones if you need to rush. Just saying.
    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Oct 4, 2010

    Nice route. Someone replaced the two, old button heads with newer bolts. Too bad. It used to be more fun, and there is gear to be had, though it takes some fiddling.

    I hate when someone replaces old buttonheads with modern bolts. Whoever did that is an asshole. JFox, why was it more fun doing the route with two bolts that might not hold a fall?
    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Oct 4, 2010

    You would think we were talking on the phone and typing at the same time. That's funny.
    By Daryl Allan
    From: Sierra Vista, AZ
    Oct 4, 2010

    Must be the same reason that people like old cars; some sense of lingering nostalgia to be had. That or it filled the pseudo-pucker cup. Or... Neptunes is building an addition and has a bounty out on more vintage gear to fill the counters. Damn you rogue hardware upgrader! ;)
    By brian benedon
    Oct 18, 2010

    they came out like butter.